UNION 


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oiumDia 


UNION 

PACIFIC 


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By  {Benjamin  H.  {Barrows 


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J asjenger £D 

Tzion  czci/ie 
cii/roacf  oznpazn/ 

fna/icz,  e£rcLS/td. 


Copyrighted  for 

Union  Pacific  Railroad  Company 
by 

E.  L.  LOMAX,  G.  P.  A,, 
Omaha,  Neb., 


1QIO 


The  Columbia  River 

A wall  of  terrible  breakers  marks  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  Achilles  of  rivers. 

Other  mighty  streams  may  swim  feebly 
away  seaward,  may  sink  into  foul  marshes, 
may  trickle  through  the  ditches  of  an  oozy 
delta,  may  scatter  among  sand  bars  the  cur- 
rents that  once  moved  majestic  and  united. 

But  to  this  heroic  flood  was  destined  a 
short  life  and  a glorious  one — a life  all  one 
strong,  victorious  struggle,  from  the  mountains 
to  the  sea.  It  has  no  infancy,  the  two  great 
branches  collect  its  waters  up  and  down  the 
continent.  They  join  and  the  Columbia  is 
born  to  full  manhood.  It  rushes  forward, 
jubilant,  through  its  magnificent  chasm,  and 
leaps  to  its  death  in  the  Pacific.  (See  Note 
A,  page  93.) 

— Theodore  Winthrop  (1853) 


8 S 4254 


THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER 


WHY  THE  SPANIARDS  CAME 


HE  oft  repeated  story  of  those  spacious 
times  when  Spain  was  in  her  glory  and 
at  the  height  of  power  and  con- 
quest, acknowledging  but  one  rival  as  mis- 
tress of  the  seas,  possesses  a charm  which  still  holds 
and  fascinates.  Familiar  as  it  is  to  students  and 
scholars,  our  interest  in  those  stirring  scenes  is  fresh 
and  vital,  and  there  are  few  pages  of  history  so 
filled  with  romance,  adventure  and  daring.  For  we. 
who  are  of  the  race  of  pioneers,  never  tire  of  the 
record  of  man’s  conquest  of  the  wi  id  erness. 

The  year  1492,  which  signalized  the  crowning 
triumph  of  Columbus,  also  witnessed  the  election  of 
Pope  Alexander  VI.  Following  the  d iscovery  of  the 
New  World,  Portugal  and  Spain  in  a few  years  became 
involved  in  bitter  dispute  over  territory  discovered 
and  acquired  by  one  or  the  other.  The  hardy  sailors 
of  each  kingdom  had  ventured  boldly  into  unknown 
seas,  and  jealousy  regarding  ownership,  even  by  right 
of  discovery,  soon  develope  d.  The  Pope  was 
recognized  by  the  Christian  world  of  that  day  as  the 
undisputed  arbiter  in  international  quarrels,  and  the 
contending  principals  called  upon  him  to  adjust  and 
settle  their  claims.  The  Pontiff,  in  1493,  solved 
the  vexing  problem,  by  tracing  a line  on  the  map, 


Spain 
in  her 
glory 


In  dispute 
with 

Portugal 


Pope 

recognized 
as  arbiter 


Three 


Th  e Columbia  River 


Dividing 

line 

established 


which  disposed  of  three-fourths  of  the  human  race, 
and  more  than  th  ree-fourths  of  the  world  of  land 
and  water;  thus  giving  the  two  greatest  maritime 
powers  in  Europe  each  one  half  of  the  pagan 
world. 

The  Portuguese  were,  under  this  extraordinary 
grant,  to  enjoy  and  possess  the  exclusive  right  of 
discovery,  trade,  conquest  and  dominion  in  all  the 
seas  and  territories  not  previously  belonging  to  a 
Christian  prince  or  people  east  of  a meridian  line 
passing  three  hundred  and  seventy  leagues  west  of 
the  Cape  Verde  Islands;  and  the  Spaniards  were  to 
possess  all  seas  and  pagan  lands  West  of  that  line. 
Under  the  sanction  and  guarantee  of  the  highest 
power  in  Europe  the  two  continued  with  renewed 
vigor  the  search  for  the  passage  to  India.  And 
thus  it  chanced  that  so  much  of  discovery  and  ex- 
ploration in  America  fell  to  the  Spaniard;  he  came 
by  right  of  authoritative  appointment  to  an  assigned 
territory.  The  Portuguese  colonized  in  Southern 
Africa,  Asia  and  Brazil;  the  Spaniards  planted  col- 
onies in  the  West  Indies,  examined  the  coasts  of 
the  adjacent  great  continent,  and  persevered  in  ex- 
ploration, the  natives  always  assuring  them  of  the 
existence  of  a great  sea  to  the  westward. 


Balboa 


THE  FORERUNNERS 

It  was  in  1513  that  Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa  first 
saw  the  majestic  Pacific,  from  a point  near  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Panama,  and  from  that  time  on  events 
in  the  historic  drama  of  this  continent  moved  rapidly. 


Four 


The  Columbia  River 


In  1520,  Fernando  Magellan  sailed  through  the 
strait  which  bears  his  name;  M exico  was  discovered 
by  Cortez  in  1518,  and  the  Spaniards  immediately 
after  its  conquest  turned  their  attention  to  the 
American  northwest  coast,  still  seeking  the  north- 
west passage  to  India.  This  quest  was  prosecuted 
with  great  vigor  by  Cortez  and  his  successors;  hence 
the  conquest  and  settlement  of  the  Pacific  Coast, 
the  explorations  far  into  the  interior,  the  founding 
of  the  missions,  and  the  laying  of  those  founda- 
tions of  Spanish  power  which  held  sway  through  so 
many  changing  scenes  and  slow  revolving  years. 
This  activity  continued  until  about  the  beginning  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  and  then  ceased  almost 
entirely  for  a hundred  years,  th  e weak  and  selfish 
policy  of  Spain  preventing  even  her  own  subjects 
from  energetic  exploration,  and  her  exclusive  do- 
minion acting  as  a bar  to  men  of  other  nations. 

It  is  curious  to  note  that  the  Panama  canal  proj- 
ect was  under  discussion  as  far  back  as  the  time 
of  Philip  II  of  Spain,  and  two  Flemish  engineers 
were  sent  out  with  instructions  to  examine  and 
report.  They  found  such  overwhelming  obstacles, 
and  such  dangers  to  the  kingdom,  that  the  King 
ordered  that,  in  future,  no  one  should  attempt  or  even 
propose  this  undertaking,  on  penalty  of  death. 

Le  ss  than  thirty  years  after  the  fourth  voyage  of 
Columbus,  in  which  he  explored  the  coasts  of  Cen- 
tral America,  plans  were  prepared  by  Spanish  trav- 
elers for  Charles  V,  King  of  Spain,  for  the  construc- 
tion of. aTanah  across  the  Isthmus,  which  would  give 


Magellan 


Cortez 


Conquest  of 

Pacific 

Coast 

and  founding 
of  missions 


Panama 
Canal 
an  early 
project 


Five 


Captain  Gray,  with  chart  in  hand,  conversing  with  one  of  his  officers 


Th  e Columbia  River 


the  ships  of  Spain  an  easy  passage  in  their  search 
for  “the  wealth  of  Indian  commerce.”  Charles’s  son 
and  successor,  Philip  II  of  Spain,  in  his  fear  of  the 
growth  of  English  sea  power,  which  had  destroyed 
his  great  Armada,  not  only  abandoned  plans  for  a 
canal,  but  forbade  them  on  the  ground  that  it  wou  Id 
be  an  impious  violation  of  “the  Divine  Will  to  unite 
two  oceans  which  the  Creator  of  the  world  had  sepa- 
rated.” During  the  century  following  th  is  curious 
edict  speculations  concerning  an  Isthmian  Canal  were 
intermittent,  but  in  1694,  a f ew  years  before  the  par- 
liamentary union  of  England  and  Scotland,  the  Scotch 
Parliament  incorporated  “The  Company  of  Scotland 
Trading  to  Africa  and  the  Indies,”  one  of  th  e purposes 
of  which  was  to  construct  a Central  American  canal 
which  would  shorten  the  route  to  China,  Japan,  and 
the  East  Indies.  With  the  failure  of  this  enterprise, 
definite  plans  for  an  Isthmian  canal  slumbered  for 
another  hundred  years;  but,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century,  canal  explorations  began  again  in 
serious  earnest.  Alexander  von  Humboldt,  the  great 
German  scientist  and  explorer,  planned  and  mapped 
six  different  routes  for  a canal  to  connect  the  Atlan- 
tic and  the  Pacific;  and,  in  1827,  Goethe,  the  poet 
and  scientist,  commenting  upon  Humboldt’s  plans, 
made  some  significant  and  interesting  prophecies 
regarding  the  project  as  affecting  the  future  of  the 
United  States. 

Renewed  activity  in  exploration  of  the  North- 
west Pacific  Coast  began  with  Russia,  and  the  voy- 
ages of  Behring  and  others  in  1 7 28,  1 7 29,  and  1741  led 


Russia 

explores 

Northwest 

Coast 


Seven 


The  Columbia  River 

to  a more  exact  knowledge  of  that  region.  In  1774 
and  17  79,  three  expeditions  were  sent  out  by  Spain, 
and  the  entire  west  coast  was  examined  as  far  north 
as  the  sixtieth  degree  of  latitude.  In  the  dawning 
days  of  discovery  on  the  Northwest  Pacific  Coast, 
the  navigators  were  of  diverse  nationalities;  from 
Spain  came  Bodega,  Cabrillo,  Viscaino,  Perez  and 
Hecata;  from  England  Drake,  Vancouver,  Cook  and 
M eares;  Vitus  Behring  was  a Dane  in  Russian 
employ;  Gray  and  Kendrick  were  Americans.  Juan 
de  Fuca  was  a Greek  sailor  who  claimed  to  have  sailed 
through  what  were  then  the  fabled  Straits  of  Anian, 
in  1592,  and  Meares  recognized  his  title  to  discov- 
ery when  he  entered  those  waters,  in  1788,  and 
confirme  a th  e name  of  the  Straits  o f Fu  ca,  which  it 
retains  to  this  day;  and  Vancouver  also  gave  per- 
functory assent.  1 he  most  eminent  geographers 
now  agree  that  de  Fuca’s  story  of  his  discovery 
was  pure  fabrication,  and  that  he  never  saw  the 
straits  which  bear  his  name. 

THE  FIRST  VISITOR 

The  second  of  these  Spanish  voyages  was  com- 
manded by  Captain  Bruno  Hecata.  He  records  that, 
on  August  15,  17  75,  he  arrived  opposite  an  opening 
in  the  coast,  in  latitude  46  1 7 \ from  which  a 

current  rushed  seaward  so  strongly  that  his  ship 
was  unable  to  enter.  He  was  certain  that  it  was 
Spaniard  mouth  of  some  great  river,  and  for  another  day 
first  cruised  in  the  vicinity  hoping  to  effect  an  entrance; 
visitor  but  failing  so  to  do,  in  spite  of  strenuous  endeavor, 


Eight 


The  Columbia  River 


he  renewed  his  voyage  toward  the  south.  Hecata 
was  undoubtedly  the  first  navigator  who  saw  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  1 he  opening  he  called 
“Ensenada  de  Asuncion”  or  Assumption  Inlet,  and 
named  the  point  on  its  north  side  Cape  San  Roque, 
and  that  on  the  south  side  Cape  Frondoso,  or  Leafy 
Cape.  The  charts  of  this  expedition  were  pub- 
lished in  Mexico  shortly  after  the  termination  of  the 
voyage,  and  the  entrance  is  called  Ensenada  de 
Hecata  or  Hecata’s  Inlet,  and  the  river  Rio  de  San 
Roque  or  River  of  Saint  Roc.  That  this  was  the 
Columbia,  the  great  river  of  the  western  side  of 
America,  first  entered  seventeen  years  later  by  an 
American  sailor  commanding  an  American  ship,  is 
unquestioned,  and  to  Hecata  belongs  the  honor  of 
being  the  first  visitor,  on  August  15,  1775.  While 
the  old  Spanish  navigator  was  cruising  up  and  down 
the  Pacific  Coast,  the  colonies  of  the  young  United 
States  were  busy  with  troubles  of  their  own,  and  not 
devoting  any  time  to  exploration;  their  best  energies 
being  directed  to  repelling  invaders  and  achieving 
their  independence.  At  th  e close  of  th  e war 
the  power  of  Spain  in  the  N ew  World  had  dwindled 
to  small  proportions,  in  comparison  with  her  former 
position  of  supremacy,  and  the  Pacific  was  open 
territory  to  the  adventurous  sailors  of  all  nations. 
English,  French  and  American  explorers  pushed 
discoveries  vigorously,  adding  immeasurably  to  a 
knowledge  of  both  the  coast  and  the  interior. 
The  results  of  Captain  Cook’s  voyage,  in  17  76,  gave 
England  a strong  advantage  in  the  fur  traffic 


Hecata’s 

Inlet 


English 

secure 

advantage 


Nine 


$ 

Medal  struck  to  commemorate  the  departure  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Washington 
to  the  Northwest  on  a fur-trading  expedition  sent  out  by  six  Boston  merchants 


The  Columbia  River 


between  the  Pacific  Coast  of  America  and  China. 
Captain  Meares  of  the  East  India  Company,  in  1788, 
endeavored  to  find  Hecata’s  Inlet  but  failed,  and 
thereafter  denied  emphatically  the  existence  of 
the  so-called  river  San  Roque.  He  found  and  gave 
name  to  Deception  Bay  and  Cape  Disappointment — 
names  which  they  still  bear. 


THE  DISCOVERER 


It  was  in  the  summer  of  1787  that  two  American 
ships  were  fitted  out  in  Boston,  to  engage  in  trade 
on  the  Pacific  Northwest  Coast:  the  Columbia, 
whereof  John  Kendrick  was  master,  and  the  sloop 
Washington,  commanded  by  Robert  Gray.  The  six 
Boston  merchants  who  owned  and  outfitted  these 
vessels  believed  that,  in  combining  the  fur  trade  of 
that  coast  wi  th  the  silk  and  tea  trade  of  China,  a 
fortune  was  assure  d.  As  one  of  the  most  noted  ships 
that  ever  sailed  under  the  American  flag,  a short 
description  of  the  Columbia  may  be  of  interest.  She 
was  built,  in  1773,  by  James  Briggs  at  Hobart’s  Land- 
ing, and  was  a full  rigged  ship  83  feet  long  and  of  2 1 2 
tons  burden.  She  had  two  decks,  a figurehead,  and  a 
square  stern  and  was  mounted  with  ten  guns — a war- 
like armament  which  often  proved  useful  even  on 
her  peaceful  trading  voyages.  The  officers  and  men 
of  the  Columbia  were  Americans  through  and 
through — the  hardy  stock  o f the  N ew  England  sea- 
board— and  every  man  an  able  seaman.  The  sturdy 
carpenter  of  the  ship  was  Samuel  Yendell  of  the  old 
North  End  of  Boston.  He  had,  when  a boy,  seen 


The  fur 
and  tea 
trade 


The  ship 
Columbia 


Samuel 

Yendell 


Eleven 


The  Columbia  in  a squall 


The  Columbia  River 


service  in  the  old  frigate  Tartar,  and  he  had  helped 
to  build  the  Constitution.  He  was  the  last  sur- 
vivor of  the  famous  crew  of  the  Columbia  and  died, 
in  1861,  at  the  great  age  of  92 — respected  as  an 
honest,  upright  man.  William  Eustis  Russe  i],  i ate 
governor  of  Massachusetts,  was  his  great-grandson. 

On  its  first  voyage  to  the  Northwest  Coast,  in 
August,  1 7 88,  while  near  the  46th  degree  of  latitude, 
the  Washington  was  well  nigh  destroyed  while 
endeavoring  to  enter  an  opening,  and  this  was,  in  all 
probability,  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  afterwards 
discovered  by  her  commander.  The  ship  grounded, 
and  Captain  Gray  went  on  shore,  where  he  was 
violently  attacked  by  Indians,  one  seaman  being 
killed  and  the  mate  wounded,  and  the  gallant  sailor 
gladly  escaped  from  this  inhospitable  shore.  Gray 
made  trading,  coasting  and  exploring  voyages  dur- 
ing I 7 88-89,  and,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  year  I 7 89, 
took  command  of  the  Columbia  and  sailed  to  China, 
where  he  arrived  on  November  16,  1789.  The  hardy 
American  sailor  of  a century  ago  knew  full  well  the 
perils  of  the  great  deep.  And,  when  we  consider  the 
kind  of  craft  wherein  he  ventured  to  far  lands  through 
well-nigh  unknown  seas,  we  no  longer  wonder  at  the 
gravely-worded  documents  so  often  used  by  the 
mercantile  marine  of  those  days.  Here  is  a copy  of 
the  bill  of  lading  covering  the  cargo  of  the  Columbia 
on  her  homeward  voyage.  Shaw  & Randall,  two 
Boston  men  recently  established  at  Canton,  were 
agents  for  the  ship;  they  also  acted  as  consular 
agents  for  the  Government: 


The 

Washington 
in  peril 


Thirteen 


The  Columbia  River 


Quaint  old 
document 


“Shipped  by  the  grace  of  God,  in  good  order  and 
condition,  by  Shaw  & Randall,  in  and  upon  the  good 
ship  called  the  Columbia,  whereof  is  master  under 
God  for  this  present  voyage  Robert  Gray,  and  now 
riding  at  anchor  at  Wampoak,  and  by  God’s  grace 
bound  for  Boston  in  America,  to  say,  220  chests 
bohea  tea,  170  half  chests  do.,  144  quarter  chests 
do.,  to  be  delivered  unto  Samuel  Parkman,  Esq.,  or 
to  his  assigns — and  so  God  send  the  good  ship  to 
her  desired  port  in  safety — amen.  Dated  in  Canton, 
Feby.  3,  1790. 

(Signed)  ROBERT  GRAY.” 


Sailed 
around 
the  world 


Kendrick 

pioneer 

navigator 


Gray  and 
Vancouver 


It  was  not  a good  trading  season  and  the  thousand 
sea  otter  skins  Gray  brought  were  so  Id  at  a sacrifice 
in  Canton,  and  the  ship’s  repairs  were  expensive. 
From  Canton,  Gray  sailed  around  the  Cape  of  Good 
H ope  and  arrived  in  Boston,  August  10,  1790  — the 
good  ship  Columbia  had  carried  the  Stars  and  Stripes 
for  the  first  time  around  the  world! 

Captain  Kendrick,  who  succeeded  Gray  in  com- 
mand of  the  Washington,  made  a thorough  examina- 
tion of  the  Northwest  Coast,  and  is  probably  the  pio- 
neer navigator,  belonging  to  a civilized  nation,  who 
sailed  entirely  through  the  Straits  of  Fuca — named 
after  the  old  Greek  pilot,  who  said  he  discovered 
them  in  1592. 

Captain  Gray,  still  master  of  the  Columbia,  and 
bearing  a sea  letter  signed  by  President  Washing- 
ton, sailed  from  Boston,  September  28,  1790,  and 
arrived  at  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  June  5,  1791. 

H e remained  there  trading  and  exploring  to  the  north, 
until  the  early  months  of  1792,  when  he  sailed 


Fourteen 


The  Columbia  River 


south.  On  the  29th  of  April  he  fell  in  with  the 

% 

English  navigator,  Vancouver,  near  the  Straits  of 
Fuca,  and  the  two  sailors  talked  over  many  th  ings. 
Among  the  matters  touched  on,  during  this  visit  of 
the  two  commanders,  there  was  one  incident  which 
deeply  impressed  Gray.  In  the  course  of  conver- 
sation, he  told  Vancouver  of  his  ineffectual  attempt 
to  enter  the  mouth  of  a river  in  latitude  46°  17 
and  that  he  stood  off  for  nine  days  trying  to  make 
an  entrance  through  those  terrible  breakers,  but 
without  success.  Now  Vancouver,  one  of  the 
best  and  most  experienced  sailors  afloat,  scheming 
and  jealous  withal,  had  just  finished  a most  thorough 
and  exhaustive  survey  of  the  coast  from  Cape  Men- 
docino to  the  Straits  of  Fuca;  he  had  noted  Meares 
Deception  Bay  in  46°  19,  and  remarked  that  the 
sea  changed  from  natural  to  river-colored  water;  did 
not  stop  to  make  further  examination — in  fact  did  not 
deem  it  worth  while.  The  open  and  apparent  fact 
of  a mighty  wall  of  breakers  across  this  real  or 
imaginary  mouth  of  a river  was,  in  his  opinion, 
proof  positive  of  one  thing  at  least,  namely,  that  the 
fierce  line  of  resistance  made  the  place  inaccessible. 
Vancouver  went  still  farther  and  stated  his  emphatic 
belief  that  no  safe  port  or  large  river  could  be  found 
anywhere  along  that  coast  of  many  perils.  So 
the  two  rivals  parted,  in,  perhaps,  no  amicable 
fashion,  each  doggedly  adhering  to  his  own  theory. 
Gray,  irritated  by  Vancouver’s  doubts,  sailed  to  the 
south,  more  determined  than  ever  to  find  that  river, 
where  he  nearly  lost  the  Washington.  Reaching 


Vancouver’s 

survey 

and  schemes 


Gray 

determines 
to  find 
river 


Fifteen 


Th  e Columbia  River 


his  destination  in  two  weeks,  he  anchored  in  the 
safe  security  of  that  piece  of  water  which  we  now 
call  Gray’s  Harbor.  His  seamanship  and  judgment 
were  not  at  fault,  for  Gray’s  Harbor  and  Shoalwater 
Bay  are,  at  the  present  time,  the  two  largest  and 
safest  harbors  on  th  e Pacific  Coast — save  only  San 
Francisco  and  Puget  Sound.  Here  he  made  all 
in  readiness,  came  out,  and,  on  M ay  II,  1792, 
squared  his  ship  stem  on,  straight  at  the  seemingly 


Hobart’s  Landing,  North  River,  Scituate,  Mass. 


invinci  bi  e wa  11  of  waters,  and,  with  every]?sail j?set, 
plunged  through  and  came  to  anchor  in  a mighty 
stream  of  fresh  water,  ten  miles  above  its  mouth  — 
and  the  Columbia  River  belonged  to  the  United 
States  thenceforward  forever.  Gray’s  discovery  of, 
and  entrance  into,  the  Columbia  furnished  our  prin- 
cipal and  valid  claim  to  the  Oregon  region,  and  the 
value  of  h is  service  became  apparent  in  the  after 
years  of  controversy;  for,  if  Vancouver’s  claim  had 


Gray's 

Harbor 


Gray  enters 
Columbia 


Sixteen 


The  Columbia  River 


stood,  we  should  have  lost  Oregon.  On  May 
20th,  Gray  left,  getting  safely  across  the  bar  after 
several  attempts.  We  have  no  record  of  his  revisit- 
ing the  scene  of  his  discovery.  After  leaving  the 
Columbia  he  fell  in  with  the  Spanish  commander, 
Quadra,  told  him  of  his  discovery  and  gave  him  a 
copy  of  his  chart;  and,  long  afterwards,  in  the  struggle 
for  the  possession  of  Oregon  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain,  it  was  th  is  chart  which  out- 
flanked the  cunningly  devised  schemes  of  Vancouver 
and  the  English  ministry. 

Robert  Gray  was  born  at  Tiverton,  Rhode  Island, 
May,  1757;  entered  the  naval  service  of  the  United 
States  during  the  War  of  the  Revolution  and  served 
with  distinction  as  an  officer. 

H e married  in  1794,  and  died, 
while  in  command  of  a coasting 
vessel,  at  Charleston,  S.  C.,  in 
th  e summer  o f 1806,  aged  forty- 
nine  years,  leaving  a wife  and 
four  daughters.  Forty  years 
afterward  Martha  Gray  applied 
for  a pension,  based  on  her  hus- 
band’s services  to  the  United 
States,  in  war,  and  as  an  ex- 
plorer. She  was  given  a town- 
ship of  land  in  Oregon  and  a pension  of  $500  a year. 
It  is  a story  of  brave  adventure  which  will  never  be 
forgotten,  and  the  hardy,  resolute,  courageous  young 
American  (he  was  only  35)  stands  for  the  type  of 
men  who  made  and  shaped  this  country  in  the 


Drinking  Cup  of  Captain 
Robert  Gray 


Chart 
given  to 
Spaniard 
saves 
Oregon 


Sketch  of 

Captain 

Gray 


Seventeen 


Upper  Columbia  Lake,  in  British  Columbia,  the  Source  of  the  Columbia  River. 


The  Columbia  River 


dawning  days  of  the  Republic.  His  fame  rests 
secure,  forever  associated  inseparably  with  the  majes- 
tic river  which  he  found  and  named. 

THE  AFTERCOMERS 


But  other  actors  soon  appeared  on  the  scene. 
In  October  of  the  same  year,  1792,  Broughton,  in 
command  of  the  armed  tender  Chatham,  entered 
the  Columbia  and  found  to  his  great  surprise  another 
ship  there,  an  American  trader,  the  brig  Jenny  of 
Bristol,  R.  I.  Broughton  explored  the  river  for  more 
than  one  hundred  miles,  reaching  a point  as  far  as 
the  present  site  of  Fort  Vancouver.  1 henceforward 
history  is  full  of  dramatic  incident  and  the  portrayal 
of  stirring,  strenuous  life;  these  were  the  early  years 
wherein  are  disclosed  the  opening  scenes  in  our 
national  epic  of  exploration.  The  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase, of  1803,  stirred  our  Government  into  unusual 
activity  along  the  lines  of  exploration  and  survey. 
The  far-famed  expedition  of  Lewis  an  d Clark, 
organized  for  the  purpose  of  gaining  an  accurate 
knowledge  of  the  newly  acquired  territory,  reached 
the  western  slope.  Early  in  1803,  these  explorers 
left  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  crossed  the 
Divide,  found  the  Snake  River  and  proceeded  down 
that  tributary  until  they  reached  the  Columbia,  which 
they  explored  to  its  mouth;  remaining  there  during 
the  winter  of  1803-6. 

It  is  far  beyond  the  scope  of  this  brief  summary 
to  follow  the  history  of  this  Northwest  Country 
further.  From  the  establishment  of  Astoria,  in  1811, 


Broughton 

explores 

Columbia 


Lewis  and 

Clark 

expedition 


Astoria 

founded, 

1811 


Nineteen 


Railroad 

survey 


Columbia 
drains 
an  empire 


Lava  soil 
most 
productive 


The  Columbia  River 

what  a wonderful  succession  of  brilliant  pictures  of 
empire-making  is  shown,  and  what  a list  of  famous 
names  shines  from  those  old-time  pages:  Hunt, 
Stewart,  McKenzie  and  the  many  heroes  of  the  fur 
trade;  Bonneville,  Commander  Wilkes,  “Pathfinder” 
Fremont,  Stevens,  McClellan,  Mullan,  Warren,  and 
many  others  more  or  less  noted.  A curious  bit  of 
history  from  those  old  records  comes  to  light  in  the 
account  of  a survey  made  by  the  engineers’  corps,  in 
1855,  for  a proposed  railway  from  Sacramento  to  the 
Columbia;  the  military  escort  was  in  charge  of 
Lieutenants  H.  G.  Gibson,  George  Crook,  J.  B.  Hood 
and  P.  H.  Sheridan. 

THE  GREAT  BASIN 

It  is  not  necessary  to  detail  the  numerous  surveys 
of  the  Columbia  River  basin  made  by  the  Govern- 
ment and  the  railways,  many  of  which  are  exhaustive 
and  full  of  interest.  The  great  basin  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  its  tributaries,  has  a drainage  area  of  nearly 
245,000  square  miles,  extending  from  the  42d  to  the 
53d  parallel — a distanceof  900  miles  — draining  the 
western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  is  an 
area  larger  than  all  N ew  England  and  the  Middle 
States,  with  Maryland,  Virginia  and  West  Virginia’4 
added;  a territory  larger  ^than  ‘the  LJnited  Kingdom, 
or  Germany,  or  France,  or  Austria-Hungary. 

UNDYING  SOIL  OF  THE  LAVA  DELUGE 

The  volcanic  lands  of  Italy,  France,  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  or,  in  fact,  any  of  the  regions  which  in 
remote  times  received  the  baptism  of  a 1 ava  over- 


Twenty 


The  Columbia  River 


flow,  are  always  pointed  out  as  examples  of  unusu- 
ally rich  soil.  Centuries  of  cultivation  do  not  seem 
to  destroy  its  productive  virtue  or  impair  the  rich- 
ness of  its  fertility.  It  is  practically  an  indestruct- 
ible soil  which  never  wears  out,  and  possesses,  so 
it  would  seem,  the  faculty  of  rejuvenation.  This 
entire  region  is  formed  of  overlying  lava  deposit  and 
of  extraordinary  thickness.  The  scientists  tell  us 
that,  when  the  upheaval  took  place,  there  occurred 
the  grandest  lava-flow  which  has  ever  been  known 
on  this  planet.  It  covered  an  area  of  200,000 
square  miles  of  western  states  and  territories, 
commencing  in  California  as  streams,  and  rising 
gradually  until  it  submerged  all  the  low-lying  coun- 
try. In  northern  Oregon  and  Washington  it  became 
an  absolutely  appalling  universal  flood,  changing  the 
entire  original  face  of  the  country.  This  lava  del- 
uge covered  a portion  of  northern  California, 
northwestern  Nevada,  nearly  all  of  Oregon,  Wash- 
ington and  Idaho,  and  ran  far  north  into  British 
Columbia.  Professor  LeConte  estimates  the  ave- 
rage thickness  of  this  layer  at  2,000  feet,  and  its 
greatest  thickness  at  3,700  feet.  It  is  certain  that,  at 
that  time,  there  were  any  number  of  volcanoes  active 
in  the  Cascade  Range  up  and  down  the  coast — those 
silent,  beautiful,  snow-mantled  sentinels  which 
today  are  so  admired  by  every  traveler.  When  we 
consider  that  underlying  lava  forms  the  basis  for  the 
richest  known  soil,  there  is  no  longer  need  for 
wonder  at  the  incomparable  fertility  of  the  Willam- 
ette Valley  or  the  Palouse  Country  or  any  of  the 


Covers 
most  of 
Northwest 


Is  well  nigh 
immortal 


Twenty-one 


The  Columbia  R iver 


marvelous  fruit  districts  of  Oregon  and  Washington. 
Lava  is  the  always  old,  but  ever  youthful,  mother  of 
the  soil — and  it  is  well-nigh  immortal. 

SPANISH  AND  INDIAN  NAMES 


Carver 
called 
river  the 
“Oregon” 


Indian 

names 

expressive 


From  the  time  of  the  earliest  visitors  to  the  in- 
terior, the  Indians  asserted  the  existence  of  a great 
river  to  the  west;  and  on  the  maps  of  America, 
published  early  in  the  eighteenth  century,  one  or 
more  such  rivers  were  represented.  Captain 
Jonathan  Carver  of  Connecticut  lived  for  three 
years  among  the  Indians  of  the  Upper  Mississippi, 
and  in  his  published  narrative,  written  ten  years 
after,  he  speaks  of  a great  river  of  the  West 
as  the  “Oregon’’  or  “Origan;’’  and  this  is  the 
first  time  the  word  appears  of  record.  It  is 
not  an  Indian  word,  and  some  claim  that  it  was  in- 
vented by  Carver,  but  inasmuch  as  it  was,  and  is,  a 
Spanish  word,  “oregan”  (meaning  the  wi  id  marjoram 
or  wild  thyme) , and  considering  the  further  fact  that 
the  plant  was  found  in  great  abundance  along  the 
coast,  this  is  strong  evidence  of  its  Spanish 
origin  and  meaning.  Confusion  in  the  nomenclature 
of  this  region  has  arisen,  owing  to  the  differently 
derived  sources,  and  these  were:  The  Indian  names; 
those  given  by  the  Spanish,  English  an  d A merican 
navigators;  names  applied  by  the  early  explorers; 
by  the  fur  traders;  and  lastly  by  the  final  settlers. 
First  and  always  the  Indian  never  makes  a mistake 
in  naming  a natural  object;  when  he  saw  the 
rounded  dome  on  the  noblest  mountain  on  a 11  that 
coast  he  called  it  “Tacoma,”  “nourishing  breast.” 

Twenty-two 


The  Columbia  River 


The  Spaniards  left  few  names,  the  most  of  them 
having  been  given  to  capes  and  headlands  and 
channel  inlets  or  reaches  of  th  e sea,  Coeur  d’Alene, 
the  name  of  a beautiful  lake  in  Washington,  means 
“heart  of  an  awl,’’  a term  applied  to  the  Indians  of 
that  section  by  the  French  voyageurs  of  the  H udson 
Bay  Company,  who  found  the  natives  such  keen 
traders  that  they  called  them  “awl  hearts’’  or  “sharp 
hearts.”  The  famous  Palouse  Country,  unrivaled 
in  the  world,  perhaps,  as  a wheat-producing  region, 
is  a corrupted  form  of  an  old  French  word,  “pelouse,” 
meaning  a “greensward  or  lawn”  — a felicitous 
title  for  the  magnificent  country  to  which  it  is  ap- 
plied. The  chief  of  the  Indians  of  the  Spokane 
district  was  called  “Illim-Spokane,”  the  “son  of  the 
sun;”  hence  the  word  means,  literally,  “children  of 
the  sun.”  The  Indians  called  the  Columbia  “Sho- 
catilicum,”  or  “friendly  water,”  or,  in  the  Chi- 
nook tongue,  “water  friend.”  The  name  of  The 
Dalles  is  rather  misleading;  the  old  French 
word  “dalle”  means  a plate,  a flagstone,  a slab — 
there  are  myriads  of  oval  or  square-shaped  stones 
in  the  river  bed  at  this  point,  and  in  the  valley 
above,  which  the  term  would  fit;  but  the  French 
trapper  called  a chasm,  or  a defile,  or  a gorge, 
“dalles,”  an  d “ Dalles”  it  has  remained.  In  an  old 
romance,  written  in  Provencal  French,  it  is  related 
that  “the  chevalier  was  in  a great  rage  when 
he  returned  to  his  castle  and  his  sword  clanged  furi- 
ously on  the  dalles,  as  he  strode  across  the  court- 
yard.” Other  investigators  claim  derivation  from 


Few  Spanish, 
many  French 
names  in 
Northwest 


Twenty-three 


Beginning  of  the  Columbia  River,  at  the  Head  of  Upper  Columbia  Lake, 


The  Col  umbia  River 


the  French  word  “d’aller,”  a mill  race.  Multnomah 
means,  “down  the  waters;”  Kulshan  (Mount  Baker) 
“the  great  white  watcher”  — a poetic  name  for  a 
mountain;  Chelan,  “beautiful  water;”  Umatilla,  “sand- 
blown-by-the-wind;’  ' Walla  Walla,  ' ‘meeting  of  the 
waters;”  Wenatchee,  “the  butterfly.” 

The  geographical  names  in  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington are  full  of  interest,  and  some  curious  bits  of 
history  are  disclosed  when  we  go  back  to  the  man 
in  whose  honor  this  mountain,  or  that  body  of  water, 
was  named.  There  is  Rainier,  the  splendid  prince 
of  the  range,  bearing  what  seems  to  be  a French 
name.  But  Peter  Rainier  (born  1740)  was  an  Eng- 
lish R ear  Admiral  and  a man  of  note  when  Van- 
couver gave  his  name  to  the  grandest  mountain 
peak  on  the  Coast.  The  Regnier  family  were 
French  Hugenots  who  fled  to  England  after  the 
revocation  of  the  edict  of  Nantes  (1685);  the  first 
exile,  Daniel  Regnier,  had  a son  Peter  who  married 
an  English  lady  and  assume  a th  e name  o f R ainier. 
His  son  Peter  was  the  famous  Admiral.  Rainier 
shared  in  the  Trafalgar  promotions  of  1805,  was 
advanced  to  full  Admiral  and  afterwards  sent  to 
Parliament.  He  served  with  the  East  India  Com- 
pany in  1764  and  took  part  in  the  subjection  of 
the  Dutch  in  Amboyna  and  Banda.  Rainier’s  share 
in  that  affair  was  booty  amounting  to  250,000 
pounds  sterling,  and  when  he  died  in  1808 — an  old 
bachelor — he  left  25,000  pounds  toward  the  reduc- 
tion of  the  national  debt. 

The  prosperous  city  of  Port  Townsend  is’named 


Twenty-five 


The  Columbia  River 


after  George, first  Marquis  of  Townshend  (1  724-1807). 
He  was  the  man  who  succeeded  Wolfe  as  Commander 
in  Canada  and  receive  d the  capitulation  of  Quebec, 
and  was  afterwa  rds  made  Lord  Lieutenant  of  Ireland. 

Samuel  Hood  (1724-1816)  was  the  first  Lord 
Hood.  He  was  commander-in-chief  of  the  forces 
in  North  America  from  1767  to  1771,  and  in  1781 
joined  Admiral  Graves  at  New  York.  In  1784,  after 
a close  contest,  he  defeated  Fox  for  Parliament, 
and  in  1788  was  made  Lord  of  the  Admiralty. 
Vancouver  has  doubly  favored  this  nobleman  by 
naming  Hood’s  Canal  in  his  ho  nor  as  well  as  the 
noble  mountain  which  overlooks  Portland. 

Th  e reasons  for  naming  Mounts  Adams  and  Jef- 
ferson are,  of  course,  sufficiently  clear. 

Puget  Sound  was  name  d after  one  of  Vancouver’s 
sailing  masters,  and  Mount  Baker  after  another  of 
the  navigator’s  lieutenants. 

Mount  St.  Helens,  the  fairest  and  most  graceful 
cone  of  them  all,  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord  St. 
Helens,  an  Irish  peer  who  received  his  title  in  1791. 
He  had  a share  in  concluding  peace  with  the  Ameri- 
can colonies;  represented  his  country  in  various 
places  as  diplomatist,  envoy  and  ambassador.  He 
never  married  and  died  in  1839,  at  86,  an  d the 
title  became  extinct.  H e was  a well-known  figure 
in  his  day  and  time,  beloved  by  Fox,  and,  perhaps, 
better  still,  entitled  to  remembrance  as  a friend 
to  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson.  After  the  fashion  of  his 
time  Vancouver  seldom  missed  an  opportunity  to 
compliment  some  member  of  the  nobility — a 


Twenty-six 


The  Columbia  River 


slight  return  for  influential  patronage — and  so 
we  have,  in  addition  to  the  mountains,  Bell  ingham 
Bay,  Georgia  Gulf,  Cape  Oxford,  and  many  others. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  two  great  naviga- 
tors were  about  the  same  age:  Gray  born  in  1757, 
and  Vancouver  in  1758 — the  latter  died  in  1798, 
aged  40  years,  unmarried.  (See  Note  B,  page  93.) 

THE  STREAM,  ITS  SOURCE  AND  TRIBUTARIES 


The  life  of  a great  man  and  the  life  of  a great  river 
are  well-worn  similes  in  comparative  illustration,  and 
obscurity  of  origin  is  strikingly  common  in  both  in- 
stances. The  Columbia  is  no  exception  to  the  rule, 
for  it  must  be  confessed  that  this  noble  stream  is 
born  in  a singularly  unromantic  region,  where  its 
beginning  is  marked  by  very  ordinary  environment. 

A narrow  valley,  bordered  by  the  outlying  foot- 
hills of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Range  on  the  east 
and  the  Selkirk  Range  on  the  west,  usually  des- 
ignated as  the  “East  and  West  Kootenays,”  extends 
for  many  hundred  miles  north  and  south;  it  averages 
about  five  miles  in  width,  and,  although  in  some 
places  wider,  it  is,  for  the  most  part,  a great 
flat-bottomed  parallel  trough.  A little  north  of  the 
50th  parallel  in  this  valley,  which,  it  will  readily  be 
understood,  is  in  British  Columbia,  are  two  small 
lakes,  seven  miles  apart,  the  upper  or  southerly 
being  nine,  and  the  lower  eight  miles  in  length;  these 
lakes  are  in  places  a mile  wide,  and  the  upper  lake  is 
th  e source  of  the  Columbia.  Through  these  lakes  the 
river  flows  northward  for  180  miles  to  its  great  bend 


Source 
of  the 
Columbia 


Rises  in 

British 

Columbia 


Twenty-seven 


Th  e Columbia  River 


to  the  south  at  Boat  Encampment,  where  it  receives 
Canoe  River  and  Portage  River.  The  banks  of  the 
upper  Iak  e are  formed  by  terraces,  nearly  one 
hundred  feet  high,  of  white  silt  deposit,  and  a grassy 
slope  extends  from  the  lake  to  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  This  upper  lake  is  fed  by  innumerable 
Fed  by  small  streams  and  springs;  a sparse  growth  of  pop- 
springs  lars  and  willows  marks  the  banks  of  the  river  at  the 
outlet,  and  below  that  point  the  swampy  morasses 
render  the  stream,  in  most  places,  well-nigh  impos- 
sible of  approach.  From  the  upper  to  the  lower  lake 
th  e river  runs  through  a marshy  valley  for  seven 
miles.  The  1 ower  lake  presents  the  same  general 
appearance  as  the  upper.  It  is  well-nigh  a rainless 
region,  for,  although  there  is  abundant  moisture  east 
and  west  from  the  lakes  and  still  farther  north, 
scarcely  any  rain  ever  falls  here,  and  irrigation  is 
necessary  in  the  Columbia-Kootenay  Valley  all  the 
way  far  sou  th  across  the  boundary  line. 

The  seemingly  capricious  ways  of  Nature  are  well 
Course  illustrated  in  the  course  of  the  Kootenay  River.  This 
of  the  fi  ne  mountain  stream  rushes  into  the  valley — larger 
Kootenay  ancJ  deeper  than  the  Columbia  here — just  one  mile  and 
a half  above  the  Upper  Columbia  Lake,  and,  instead 
of  emptying  into  the  lake,  turns  due  south  for  many 
a long  mile  across  the  boundary,  entering  the  north- 
west corner  of  Montana;  turns  sharply  west  through 
northern  Idaho,  and,  veering  to  the  north,  returns  to 
British  Columbia,  and  joins  the  Columbia  River  24 
miles  above  the  International  Boundary  Line — both 
rivers,  one  flowing  north  and  one  south,  having 


Twenty-eight 


Th  e Columbia  River 


run  a course  of  many  hundred  miles  before  their 
union.  The  geologists  tell  us  that  this  curious  cir- 
cumstance is  accounted  for  by  upheavals  in  the 
glacial  period;  that  this  whole  valley  was  once 
packed  full  of  ice,  and  the  disturbance,  incident  to 
its  moving  out,  resulted  in  tipping  the  bottom  o f the 
upper  lake  so  that  its  waters  flowed  to  the  north, 
and  that  where  the  Kootenay  entered  there  was 
a sharp  slant  to  the  south.  Some  sort  of  tremen- 
dous convulsion  evidently  occurred,  for  the  river 
bed  of  the  Kootenay  is  forty  feet  higher  than  Upper 
Columbia  Lake — a sharp  decline  in  a mile  and 
a half.  The  face  of  the  country  in  this  short  dis- 
tance is  a sort  of  flat  terrace  wi  th  an  elevation  of 
only  2,700  feet  above  the  sea  level  and  is  call  ed 
Canal  Flats;  a canal  was  cut  through  from  the  Koote- 
nay to  the  Upper  Lake  which  was  once  used 
by  steamboats,  making  navigation  on  the  Koote- 
nay-Columbia  streams  possible.  The  canal  was 
destroyed  by  high  water  in  1894.  This  elevation 
gives  us  the  fall  or  descent  of  the  stream  in  its  journey 
of  1,200  miles  from  its  source  to  the  ocean  floor.  A 
desolate  region  is  th  is  Columbia  Valley  to  the  south; 
sandy,  gravel  soil,  sparse  growth  of  trees,  mostly  fir, 
and  scanty  grass.  A short  distance  from  the  end  of 
the  upper  lake  there  is  a hot  spring  possessed  of 
considerable  medicinal  value,  which  shows  a tem- 
perature of  1 1 2 degrees.  It  is  probable  that  McGil- 
livary,  the  old  Northwest  Company  trader,  was  the 
first  white  man  to  visit  the  headwaters  of  the  Col- 
umbia, in  1800.  David  Thompson,  a geographer  in 


Desolate 

Valley 


Twenty-nine 


Lower  Arrow  Lake,  looking  north  from  Renata 


The  Columbia  River 


the  service  of  the  same  company,  ascended  the  river  Headwaters 
to  its  source  in  1 809,  and  established  Kootenay  House  ^X^gQQ^ 
near  the  lakes;  and,  thenceforward,  the  country 
became  more  or  less  familiar  to  the  fur  traders, 
hunters,  trappers,  and  a long  list  of  exploring  parties. 

For  a hundred  miles,  and  more,  northward  from 
the  lakes,  the  Columbia  pursues  its  tortuous  way, 
wandering  through  marshy  lands,  lakelets,  lagoons  General 
and  swamps.  As  already  noted,  Canoe  River  and  course  of 
Portage  River  mingle  their  waters  with  the  Columbia  Columbia 
at  Boat  Encampment,  and,  from  this  junction  point, 
the  Columbia  flows  nearly  due  south  for  400  miles, 
until  it  makes  the  great  bend  westward  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Spokane  River.  From  Boat  Encamp- 
ment the  entire  character  of  the  river  changes,  as  it 
swerves  south,  flowing  for  the  first  150  miles  mostly 
through  towering  canon  walls,  closely  shut  in.  A 
little  above  the  Dalles  des  Morts,  seventy  miles 
down  from  Boat  Encampment,  a small  creek  joins  the 
river,  and  Alexander  Ross  gives  this  description  of  a 
fantastically  weird  picture:  “ The  water  of  a cataract- 
creek,  after  shooting  over  the  brink  of  a bold 
precipice,  falls  in  a white  sheet  onto  a broad,  flat  rock,  pecujjar 
smooth  as  glass,  which  forms  the  first  step,  then  cataract- 
upon  a second,  some  ten  feet  lower  down,  and  lastly  creek 
on  a third,  somewhat  lower.  It  then  enters  a sub- 
terraneous vault,  formed  at  the  mouth  like  a funnel; 
and,  after  passing  through  this  funnel,  it  again  issues 
forth  wi  th  a noise  of  distant  thunder.  After  falling 
over  another  step  it  meets  the  front  of  a bold  rock 
which  repulses  the  water  with  such  violence 


Thirty-one 


Driftwood 

Islands 


Dangerous 

to 

navigate 


The  Columbia  River 

as  to  keep  it  whirling  around  in  a large  basin. 
Opposite  to  this  rises  the  wing  of  a shelving  cliff 
which  overhangs  the  basin  and  forces  back  the  rising 
spray,  refracting  in  the  sunshine  all  the  colors  of 
the  rainbow.  The  creek  then  enters  the  Columbia.” 

Farther  on  there  are  many  islands  formed 
entirely  of  driftwood,  so  closely  and  solidly  com- 
pressed by  the  current  that  they  seem  to  have  been 
laid  in  tiers  by  the  hand  of  man.  The  old  water 
trail  in  those  northern  solitudes  was  filled  wi  th 
dangerous  rapids  and  seething  Whirlpools,  walled  in 
by  somber  canon  walls,  as  the  French  voyageur  in 
his  frail  canoe  knew  full  we  11,  for  th  e grim  names  he 
gave  them  are  full  of  terrible  significance — signs  and 
tokens  of  the  treacherous  way  which  still  remain — 
such  as  the  ‘‘Dalles  of  Death,”  “Dead  Man’s  Rapids” 
and  ‘ Hell  Gate.”  At  Upper  Arrow  Lake,  which  is  33 
miles  long,  th  e river  is  three  miles  wide,  an  d 16  miles 
farther  down,  at  Lower  Arrow  Lake,  there  is  a stretch 
of  water  42  miles  long  by  two  and  one-half  miles  wide. 
A short  distance  below,  the  Kootenay  River  becomes 
tributary,  and,  24  miles  from  this  junction,  Clark’s 
Fork,  or  the  Pend  d’Oreille  River,  joins  the  Columbia 
one  mile  north  of  the  International  Boundary  Line. 
Clark’s  Fork,  American  born  as  it  is,  holds  its  course 
from  infancy  to  full  maturity  within  the  boundaries 
of  its  native  land;  but,  at  the  last,  slips  across  the 
bord  er  and  dies  on  foreign  soi  1.  While  Clark’s  Fork 
has  been  regarded  always  as  the  great  northern  branch 
of  the  Columbia,  the  fact  remains  that,  although  longer, 
it  does  not  carry  as  much  water  as  the  Kootenay. 


Thirty-two 


The  Columbia  River 


The  estimated  length  of  the  Columbia  (according 
to  the  usually  accepted  authority),  from  source  to 
mouth,  is,  approximately,  1,400  miles  (see  Note  C, 
page  94);  the  main  stream  and  tributaries  having  a 
navigable  length  of  2,132  miles,  which  is  divided, 
according  to  some  reports,  as  follows: 

Columbia  754,  Snake  240,  Willamette  224,  and 
914  on  other  tributary  streams.  With  the  Cascades 
and  The  Dalles  obstructions  removed,  navigation 
will  be  possible  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to 
Priest’s  Rapids,  409  miles,  and,  via  the  Snake  River  to 
a point  above  Lewiston,  Idaho,  5 1 6 miles  from  the  sea. 
Navigation  on  the  Upper  Columbia  and  Snake  extends 
practically  from  LJmatilla  to  Lewiston,  266  miles. 


Length  of 
Columbia 
and  its 
tributaries 


FROM  THE  BOUNDARY  LINE  SOUTH 


In  the  State  of  Washington  many  rivers  are  tribu- 
tary to  the  Columbia,  the  more  important  being  the 
Kettle,  Colville,  Spokane,  San  Poil,  Okanogan, 
Methow,  Wenatchee,  and  Yakima.  The  Okanogan 
is  203  miles  from  the  boundary  line  an  a 213  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Snake,  and  is  the  outlet  of  a 
mountain  lake  80  miles  in  length. 

Little  Dalles  is  a deep  and  narrow  canon  15 
miles  south  of  the  international  line.  During  the 
Frazier  River  gold  fever  a small  steamer  was  built 
here  and  made  trips  up  the  Columbia  to  Death 
Rapids,  225  miles  into  British  territory.  Kettle 
Falls,  seven  miles  below  Little  Dalles,  are  25  feet 
high;  a few  miles  farther  on  are  Grand  Rapids  which 
in  some  respects  bear  close  resemblance  to  the 


Many 

tributaries 


Steamer 
on  Upper 
Columbia 


Thirty-three 


Entrance  to  Watchau  Valley,  Lower  Arrow  Lake,  B.  C. 


The  Columbia  River 


Cascades;  70  miles  more  and  we  reach  the  mouth 
of  the  Spokane  River,  the  outlet  of  lake  Coeur 
d’Alene.  No  stream  enters  the  left  bank  of  the 
Columbia  from  Spokane  River  to  the  Snake,  a dis- 
tance of  310  miles.  A f ew  miles  below  Spokane 
River  the  Columbia  passes  through  a canon  of  many 
colored  rocks  of  black,  brown,  pink  and  white  and 
these  varicolored  massive  walls  are  decorated  with 
red  and  yellow  mosses  and  have  been  carved 
into  all  manner  of  fantastic  forms  of  pinnacles,  ter- 
races, devil  slides,  and  giant  causeways.  Still 
farther  on,  Mahkin  Rapids,  an  d the  d readed  Kalichen 
Falls  and  whirlpool  rapids,  known  as  a death  trap  to 
every  daring  trader  of  the  early  days.  Lake  Chelan, 
a beautiful  sheet  of  water  and  its  river  two  and 
one-  half  miles  long,  tributary  to  the  Columbia,  is 
228  miles  from  the  boundary.  Below  the  danger- 
ous Rock  Islands  Rapids  is  a colossal  rock  of  bi  ack 
basalt,  100  feet  high,  anchored  amid  stream; 
approaching  this  from  the  north,  it  presents  a perfect 
profile  of  Queen  Victoria,  and  appropriately  has 
been  named  Victoria  Rock.  The  river  banks  here 
are  black,  gloomy  walls,  3,000  feet  high.  There 
are  II  miles  of  Priest  s Rapids,  dangerous  even  for 
the  canoe  man  and  a bar  to  navigation.  From  this 
point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  there  is  nothing 
particularly  worthy  of  description.  At  Ainsworth, 
Washington,  the  Columbia  receives  the  Snake — its 
noblest  contributor.  It  may  well  be  questioned  if 
the  Snake,  from  this  junction  point  to  its  source,  is 
not  the  greater  of  the  two  branches  whose  union 
forms  the  majestic  stream  we  call  the  Columbia. 


Canons, 
falls  and 
rapids 


Junction 

with 

Snake 

River 


Thirty-five 


Shoshone 

Falls 


Sources  of 
three  Great 
Rivers  in 
Yellowstone 
Park 


Snake  240 
feet  deep 


Th  e Columbia  River 


Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this  splendid  river  may 
be  gained  from  the  following  figures  covering  the 
drainage  area  of  the  Columbia: 

Snake  River 104,604  sq.  miles 

Columbia  above  junction  with  Snake  - 97, 1 55  “ 

Main  Columbia  below  junction  - - 43,200  “ 

Snake  River  meanders  through  the  eastern,  south- 
ern and  western  parts  of  the  State  of  Idaho,  for  over 
a thousand  miles,  and  next  to  Niagara  boasts  the 
most  imposing  cataract  on  the  continent  — the  great 
Shoshone  Falls,  a waterfall  which  measures  980 
feet  across  its  rim,  having  a sheer  fall  o f 210  feet, 
carrying  the  full  volume  of  the  river  which  is  180 
feet  deep  immediately  above  the  falls.  The  canon 
walls  in  this  gorge  are  1,200  feet  from  water  level 
to  the  top.  The  Snake  River  rises  among  the 
marvelous  scenes  of  the  Yellowstone  National  Park, 
within  a few  feet  of  the  crystal  founts  from  which 
springs  that  great  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  the 
Yellowstone;  and,  within  sight  of  the  headwaters  of 
that  grand  inlet  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  the  Rio 
Colorado.  Here,  at  its  romantic  start,  the  Snake  is 
also  only  a day’s  ride  from  its  twin  torrent  of  the 
north,  Clark’s  Fork,  but  soon  sweeps  southwa  rd  500 
miles  as  if  to  gather  in  the  waters  of  wider  and  richer 
fields.  Again  flowing  majestically  northward  to  mark 
the  boundary  between  Idaho  and  Oregon,  it  unites 
with  Clark’s  Fork  system  to  form  the  Columbia.  It 
will  lead  the  reader  toward  a true  appreciation  of 
the  wondrous  volume  of  the  Snake  River  when  he 
is  informed  that  soundings  of  the  deep  blue  stream 
in  eastern  Idaho  fail  to  discover  bottom  at  240  feet. 


Thirty-six 


The  Columbia  River 


NOBLE  SCENES  AND  GARDENS  FAIR 

In  this  hasty  sketch  of  the  Columbia,  from  its 
source  to  the  boundary  line  and  thence  across  the 
State  of  Washington,  the  course  of  the  river  only 
has  been  outlined  and  no  description  attempted  of 
the  country  through  which  the  stream  passes.  But 
the  dramatic  story  of  this  whole  region,  the  land 
where  the  river  flows,  tal  es  of  the  first  white  man 
along  the  coast;  how  all  nations  sought  the  river 
from  the  sea  and  how  they  found  it;  first  steps  across 
th  e wilderness  in  search  of  the  river;  the  fur  traders, 
th  eir  batteaux  and  their  stations;  the  coming  o f the 
missionaries  to  the  tribes  o f th  e river;  th  e era  of 
th  e pioneers,  their  ox  teams  and  their  flat-boats;  the 
conflict  of  nations  for  possession  of  the  river; 
the  times  of  tomahawk  and  firebrand;  when  the  fire 
canoes  took  the  place  of  the  log  canoes;  era  of  the 
miner,  the  cowboy,  the  farmer,  the  boomer,  an  d the 
railroad  build  er;  and  the  present  age  of  expansion 
and  world  commerce  — -all  this  has  been  most  delight- 
fully told  by  Professor  Lyman  of  Whitman  College, 
Walla  Walla,  Wash.  (See  Note  D,  page  94.) 

But  this  great  valley  presents  a very  different 
aspect  from  that  which  greeted  the  surveying  parties 
and  governmental  exploring  expeditions  of  even 
twenty-five  or  thirty  years  ago.  An  empire  has 
sprung  into  being  here  in  these  fleeting  years,  and 
the  river,  as  it  flows  from  those  once  almost  inac- 
cessi  ble  northern  solitudes,  is  banked  on  either  side, 
in  many  sections,  by  fair  and  fruitful  stretches  where 


Thirty-seven 


The  Columbia  River 


“Round  about  them  orchards  sweep 
Apple  and  peach  tree  fruited  deep 
Fair  as  a garden  of  the  Lord  ” — 

Thriving  towns  have  arisen,  mills  and  smelters  are 
never  idle,  and  the  music  of  commercial  industry 
fills  the  air.  Lower  Columbia  Lake  is  now  Lake 
Windermere,  and  there  is  a town  there  bearing  the 
same  name.  We  can  take  a steamer  now  from  th  is 
point  to  Golden,  150  miles  below,  passing  through 
the  bayou  like  expansions  of  the  river.  From 
Golden  to  Revelstoke  the  stream  is  not  navigable 
by  steamers;  here  are  located  those  river  reaches  that 
were  most  dreaded  by  trappers  and  Indians;  Death 
Rapids,  Kimbasket,  Surprise  Rapids  and  others. 
The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  th  e vigorous  and 
potential  friend  of  all  this  Upper  Columbia  region, 
has  taken  advantage  of  offered  opportunity  here, 
and  the  tourist  is  afforded  a series  of  magnificent 
views  from  Golden  to  Revelstoke;  the  Great  Glacier, 
Asulkan  Glacier,  and  Sir  Donald,  a huge  granite 
monolith  rising  to  the  height  of  10,800  feet  in  one 
solid  block,  are  a few  of  the  many  attractions  in 
sight. 

Engineers  are  of  opinion  that  the  Columbia  can 
be  made  navigable  from  Revelstoke  to  the  ocean; 
a canal  and  locks  are  needed  at  Kettle  Falls, 
another  at  Priest  Rapids,  and  still  another  at  The 
Dali  es  — the  Cascade  Locks  are  already  built,  leav- 
ing a free  course  to  the  sea. 

Professor  Lyman  groups  the  Upper  Columbia  in 
three  stages:  “ First,  the  lagoon-like  expanse  from 


Navigable 
all  the 
Way 


Thirty-nine 


Courtesy  Canadian  Pacific  Ry.  Steamer  Rossland  on  Arrow  Lake 


The  Columbia  River 


Canal  Flats  to  Golden,  150  miles;  the  more  swift 
and  turbulent  part  from  Golden  to  Revelstoke,  250 
miles;  third,  the  lake  stage  from  Revelstoke  to  Lake 
Chelan.  The  journey  on  a steamer  from  Arrow- 
head to  Robson  is  one  to  dream  of  and  to  recall  in 
waking  hours;  the  two  Arrowhead  lakes  constitute 
130  miles  of  steamboating,  and  every  mile  has  its 
special  charm.  The  mountains  rise  in  places  to 
great  altitudes  on  Upper  Arrow  Lake,  but  there  are 
sheltered  vales  and  slopes  along  the  shores,  and 
here  most  wonderful  results  have  been  obtained  in 
the  cultivation  of  choice  fruits.  Lower  Arrow  Lake 
lacks  the  rugged  outline  of  the  Upper  Lake  but 
presents  instead  a richness  of  color  which  more  th  an 
compensates.” 

At  Robson  passengers  are  transferred  to  trains 
for  N elson;  the  Kootenay  enters  just  below  here. 
Nelson,  an  energetic  town  of  over  7,000  people,  is 
the  business  center  o f th  is  region.  From  here 
steamers  ply  for  long  distances  on  the  Kootenay, 
and  this  town  is  also  the  terminal  of  the  Spokane  & 
Northern  Railroa  d.  Th  is  roa  d foil  ows  the  canon 
of  the  Columbia  and  is  the  easiest  and  most  accessi  ble 
route  from  Spokane  for  tourists  desiring  to  make 
the  river  tour.  There  is  no  steamboat  service  from 
Nelson  to  Kettle  Falls,  but  an  alluring  temptation 
offers  to  those  who  enjoy  an  old-fashioned  trip  in 
a row  boat.  Steamers  run  from  Brewster,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Okanogan,  to  W enatchee. 

Professor  Lyman  gives  a fascinating  picture  of 
Lake  Chel  an:  “ We  had  thought  that  the  Columbia 


Forty-one 


1 he  Columbia  River 


was  clear,  but  we  did  not  th  en  know  what  clear 
water  really  was.  Wh  en  we  reac  h the  mouth  of  the 
Chelan  River  we  see  a streak  of  blue  cutting  right 
across  the  impetuous  down-flow  o f th  e river,  and 
this  transparent  torrent  is  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  It 
is  four  miles  long  and  descends  380  feet  in  that 
distance,  and  this  canon,  riven  and  tortured,  is  a fit- 
ting approach  to  the  lake.  Majestic  as  is  th  e view 
at  the  lower  end,  we  do  not  tarry  but  set  out  on  our 
sixty-mile  pull  toward  “where  the  spectral  glaciers 
shone,”  finding,  as  we  pass  slowly  by,  ample  confir- 
mation of  the  theory  of  glacial  origin.  This  is  one 
of  the  deepest  canons  on  earth.  At  some  points  the 
granite  walls  rise  almost  vertically  6,000  feet  from 
the  water’s  edge.  This  surpasses  in  depth  Yosem- 
ite,  Yellowstone,  Columbia,  or  even  Colorado 
Ca  non,  and,  while  it  lacks  many  features  of  the 
others,  none  of  them  have  the  immensity  — a certain 
chaotic  sublimity  — nor  the  rich  and  somber  gran- 
deur of  coloring,  such  lights  and  shades,  such  blend- 
ings, beyond  imagination  to  conceive  or  pen  to 
describe  or  brush  to  portray.”  Soundings  in  Chelan  CHffs 
have  found  bottom  in  some  places  at  1,700  feet,  and,  a mile 
if  we  add  the  height  of  the  cliffs  above  the  water  and  a 
line,  we  have  7,700  feet  — about  a mile  and  a half  ^alf  high 
high  — of  solid  vertical  wall!  Wenatchee  enjoys  the 
triple  distinction  of  being  the  name  of  a lake,  a 
river  and  a town,  and  at  this  place  the  visitor  may 
appreciate  what  has  been  done  in  fruit  raising  by 
aid  of  irrigation,  for  the  apples,  peaches,  pears 
and  grapes  of  the  Wenatchee  fruit  belt  are  famous. 


Forty-three 


CD 


<D 

03 

§ 

O 

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Q> 

§ 

O 

_J 


bJ) 

c 

~o 

c 

C3 

_J 


T3 

O 

O 

S 

0) 

bn 

~o 

LU 


The  Columbia  River 


Irregular  steamboat  service  exists  between  Wenat- 
chee and  Priest  Rapids  — about  60  miles.  Just 
below  the  rapids  one  of  the  great  irrigation  projects 
has  been  mapped  out,  for  however  barren  looking 
some  sections  of  the  river  here  may  appear,  there  is 
no  question  about  the  fertility  o f th  is  lava  soil,  once 
the  water  from  an  irrigation  ditch  is  turned  on.  For 
a hundred  miles  down  the  river  propositions  of  this 
kind  are  being  planned;  it  is  estimated  that  there  are 
over  900,000  acres  of  irrigated  land  lying  along  the 
river  between  this  point  and  Umatilla,  an  d the  river 
itself  will  furnish  the  power  for  pumping.  From 
Priest  Rapids  to  Pasco,  about  70  miles,  th  e river  is 
quiet,  deep,  majestic,  traversed  by  well-appointed 
steamers.  A short  distance  below  Hanford  the 
Yakima  River  enters — a stream  which  plays  an  impor- 
tant part  in  the  irrigation  of  the  great  Yakima  Valley, 
the  largest  in  the  State — about  which  so  much  has 
been  written.  The  reports  of  the  productive  capac- 
ity of  these  irrigated  lands  are  beyond  belief. 
Nearing  Pasco  a great  reach  of  prairie  stretches 
east  and  south — “the  plains  of  the  Columbia;’’  to  the 
east  it  is  bounded  by  the  horizon,  for  it  extends  over 
200  miles  to  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains.  As  an 
example  of  western  growth  the  town  of  Kennewick, 
a little  farther  down,  may  be  noted.  Here  is  a hand- 
some town  of  3,500  people  where,  seven  years  ago, 
sagebrush  was  all  that  could  be  seen.  Swinging  on 
down  stream  we  arrive  at  Ainsworth,  where  the 
Snake  joins  the  Columbia. 


Forty-five 


The  Columbia  River 

J! 

I 

Soon  after  its  junction  with  the  Snake,  the  Colum- 
bia swerves  in  a great  bend  toward  the  west, 
which  course  it  fairly  holds  to  the  end,  receiving  in 
succession  the  Walla  Walla,  Umatilla,  John  Day, 
Des  Chutes,  Klickitat,  Willamette,  Cowlitz,  and 
nany  other  streams  of  lesser  note.  For  over  300 
nil  es  the  Columbia  forms  the  boundary  line  between 
:he  States  of  Washington  and  Oregon.  Umatilla,  34 
niles  from  Ainsworth,  is  the  point  where  the  traveler 
,:rom  the  East  via  the  Union  Pacific,  Oregon  Short 
Line  and  Oregon  Railroad  & Navigation  Company, 
las  his  first  view  of  the  Columbia.  The  broad  river 
'oils  somewhat  lazily  on  its  course  here — a reserve 
3f  power  which  only  a few  miles  farther  down  asserts 
tself  with  tremendous  energy.  From  Umatilla,  a 
Dranch  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  & Navigation  Company 
extends  north  to  Spokane,  a distance  of  246  miles; 
the  main  line  follows  the  Columbia  to  a point  a few 
niles  from  Portland. 

GOVERNMENT  AID 

Celilo  Falls,  below  Umatilla,  mark  the  real  begin- 
ling  of  The  Dalles,  14  miles  farther  down.  Huge  lava 
moulders  crowd  the  river  and  over  these  obstructions 
he  river  pours  its  resistless  volume.  Rapids  succeed 
apids  until  a cumulation  is  reached  and  the  water 
ushes  over  falls  20  feet  in  height  at  low  water.  The 
iver  from  here  onward  is  disturbed,  angry,  annoyed 
vith  those  sunken  lava  teeth  which  rend  and  gnaw; 
ind,  without  rest  for  restoration,  comes  to  its  second 
ind  greater  trouble,  still  vexed  and  complaining. 

Forty-seven 


Combined 

stream 

flows 

west 


The  valley 
railroad 


Beginning  of 
“The  Dalles” 


Columbia  River  above  Go'den, 


The  Columbia  River 


Practically  speaking,  there  are  four  great  obstruc- 
tions between  Celilo  and  the  foot  of  The  Dalles 
Celilo  Falls,  Ten-Mile  Rapids,  Three-Mile  Rapids, 
and  “The  Dalles.”  The  formation  at  The  Dalles  was 
an  absolute  barrier  to  navigation;  the  o th  ers  were 
susceptible  of  treatment.  For  a mile  and  a half  at 
The  Dalles  the  river  flows  with  great  velocity 
between  a number  of  precipitous  basaltic  walls 
averaging  150  to  200  feet  apart  the  volume  of  the 
Columbia  being  compressed  into  this  narrow  space. 
After  many  experimental  surveys  a plan  has  been 
approved  which  seems  assure  d of  success.  All  the 
obstructions  have  been  grouped  under  one  general 
proposition,  and  it  is  proposed  to  build  a continuous 
ca  nal  f rom  the  pool  above  Celilo  to  the  pool  below 
The  Dali  es,  with  an  open-river  improvement  at  Three- 
Mile  Rapids,  three  miles  above  The  Dalles.  This 
canal  will  have  a depth  of  eight  feet,  65  feet  wide 
at  the  bottom,  and  a length  of  eight  and  one-half 
miles,  with  five  locks  each  300  feet  long,  45  feet 
wi  de  and  seven  feet  deep  over  the  si  lls.  In  round 
numbers  the  estimated  cost  of  this  work  will  be 

$4,900,000.  In  the  14  miles  from  Celilo  to  The 
Dali  es,  th  e river  falls  81  feet  in  low  water  and  53  feet 
at  flood  stage. 

THE  DALLES 

Safe  and  serene  above  the  tumult  and  stress  of 
the  river  nestles  the  pretty  town  of  The  Dalles,  and 
tributary  to  it  is  a country  prolific  in  fruit  and  wheat. 
This  was  a station  in  fur-trading  times,  and  a 


Great 

canal 

around 

“The 

Dalles' 


Forty-nine 


The  Columbia  River 


favorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  for  it  was  the  best 
place  in  the  Columbia  to  spear  salmon.  A salmon 
cannery  is  located  here,  and  from  this  point  the 
voyage  of  all  voyages  in  this  country  commences — 
a day  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  matchless  Columbia. 
It  is  88  miles  by  rail  to  Portland  along  the  river’s 
edge,  for  those  who  prefer  the  quickest  transit,  but 
the  Oregon  Railroad  & Navigation  Company  gives 
patrons  the  option  of  a trip  by  either  rail  or  water. 

THE  LEGEND  OF  THE  DALLES 

Theodore  Winthrop,  in  his  own  brilliant  way,  tells 
the  legend  that  the  Indians  believe  as  to  th  e origin 
of  the  ghastly  rents  in  those  enormous  sheets  of  lava 
rock.  “ In  the  very  ancient  and  far-away  times  the 
sole  and  only  inhabitants  o f th  e wor  id  were  fie  nds, 
and  very  highly  uncivilized  fiends  at  that.  The  whole 
northwest  was  then  one  of  the  centers  of  volcanic 
action.  The  craters  of  the  Cascades  were  fire 
breathers  and  fountains  of  liquid  flame.  It  was  an 
extremely  fiendish  country  and,  naturally,  the  inhab- 
itants fought  like  devils.  Where  the  great  plains  of 
the  Upper  Columbia  now  spread  was  a vast  inland 
sea,  which  beat  against  a rampart  of  hills  to  the  east 
o f The  Dali  es.  And  the  great  weapon  of  the  fiends 
in  warfare  was  their  tails  which  were  of  prodigious 
size  and  terrible  strength.  Now,  the  wisest,  strong- 
est, and  most  subtle  fiend  of  the  entire  crew  was  one 
fiend  called  the  ‘Devil  . He  was  a thoughtful  per- 
son and  viewed  with  alarm  the  ever-increasing 
tendency  among  his  neighbors  toward  fighting  and 


By  steamer 
from  The 
Dalles  to 
Portland 


Indian 
legend  of 
The  Dalles 


Fifty-one 


Up  Windermere  Valley  from  Mount  Swanzy,  B.  C.  Upper  Columbia  Lake  in  Distance 


The  Columbia  River 


general  wickedness.  The  whole  tribe  met  every 
summer  to  have  tournament  after  their  fashion,  and 
at  one  of  these  reunions  the  ‘Devil’  rose  and  made  a 
pacific  speech.  He  took  occasion  to  enlarge  on  the 
evils  of  constant  warfare,  and  suggested  that  a gen- 
eral reconciliation  take  place  and  they  all  live  in 
peace. 

“The  astonished  fiends  could  not  understand  any 
such  unwarlike  procedure  from  him , and  with  one 
accord,  suspecting  treachery,  made  straight  at  the 
intended  reformer,  who,  of  course,  took  to  his  heels. 
The  fiends  pressed  him  hard  as  he  sped  over  the 
plains  of  The  Dalles,  and,  as  he  neared  the  defile,  he 
struck  a titanic  blow  with  his  tail  on  the  pavement 
and  a chasm  opened  up  through  the  valley,  and 
down  rushed  the  waters  of  the  inla  nd  sea.  But  a 
batallion  of  fi  ends  still  pursued  him,  and  again  he 
smote  with  his  tail  and  more  strongly,  and  a vaster 
cleft  went  up  and  down  the  valley,  and  a more 
terrific  torrent  went  along.  The  leading  fiends  took 
the  leap,  but  many  fell  into  the  chasm — and  still  the 
Devil  was  sorely  pursued.  He  had  just  time  to  rap 
once  more  and  with  all  the  vigor  of  a despairing  tail. 
A third  crevice,  twice  the  width  of  the  second,  split 
the  rocks,  riving  a deeper  cleft  in  the  mountain  that 
held  back  the  inland  sea,  making  a gorge  through  the 
majestic  chain  of  the  Cascades  and  opening  a way  for 

}■ 

the  torrent  oceanward.  It  was  the  crack  of  doom 
for  the  fiends.  Essaying  the  leap,  they  fell  far  short 
of  the  edge,  where  the  Devil  lay  panting.  Down 

they  fell  and  were  swept  away  by  the  flood,  so  the 

4 

Fifty-three 

I 


Courtesy  Canadian  Pacific  Ry.  Columbia  River  near  West  Robson 


The  Columbia  River 


whole  race  of  fiends  perished  from  the  face  o f the 
earth. 

“But  the  Devil  was  in  a sorry  case.  His  tail  was 
unutterably  dislocated  by  his  last  blow;  so,  leaping 
across  the  chasm  he  had  made,  he  went  home  to  rear 
his  family  thoughtfully.  There  were  no  more  antag- 
onists; so,  perhaps,  after  all,  tails  were  useless.  Every 
year  he  brought  his  children  to  The  Dalles  and  told 
them  the  terrible  history  of  his  escape.  A n d,  after  a 
time,  the  fires  of  the  Cascades  burned  away,  the 
inland  sea  was  drained,  and  its  bed  became  a fair  and 
habitable  land;  and  still  the  waters  gushed  through 
the  narrow  crevices  roaring  seaward.  But  the  Devil 
had  one  sorrow.  All  h is  children  born  before  the  catas- 
trophe were  crabbed,  unregenerate,  and  stiff-tailed 
fiends.  After  that  event  every  new  born  imp  wore 
a flaccid,  invertebrate,  despondent  tail- — the  very  last 
insignium  of  ignobility.  So  runs  the  legend  of  The 
Dali  es — a shining  lesson  for  reformers.” 

Leaving  The  Dalles  in  the  morning,  a splendid 
panorama  begins  to  unfold  on  this  lordly  stream. 
It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  charm  of  this  trip. 
Residents  of  the  East  pronounce  it  superior  to  the 
Hudson  and  travelers  assert  that  there  is  nothing 
like  it  in  the  Old  World.  It  is  simply  delicious  to 
those  who  are  seeking  escape  from  the  heat  and 
dust  of  their  far-off  homes  to  embark  on  this  noble 
river,  and  steam  smoothly  down  past  the  frowning 
headlan  ds  and  ‘ ‘rocks  with  carven  imageries,”  bluffs 
lined  with  pine  trees,  vivid  green,  past  islands  and 
falls,  and  distant  views  of  snowy  peaks.  There  is 


Scenery 

unequaled 

elsewhere 


Fifty-five 


Courtesy  Great  Northern  Ry.  Kettle  Falls,  Columbia  River,  Stevens  County,  Wash 


7 he  Columbia  River 


no  trip  like  it  on  the  coast,  and  for  a river  excursion 
there  is  not  its  equal  in  the  United  States. 

THE  ISLE  OF  THE  DEAD 

Twelve  miles  below  The  Dalles  there  is  a lonely, 
rugged  island  amid  stream.  It  is  bare  save  for  a 
white  monument  which  rises  from  its  rocky  breast. 
No  living  thing,  no  vestige  of  verdure,  or  tree  or 
shrub  appears.  And  veteran  Captain  John  McNulty, 
as  he  stood  at  the  wheel  and  steadied  the  Queen, 
used  to  tell  the  story  of  the  friend  he  loved.  “That 
monument?  It’s  Victor  Trevet’s.  Of  course,  you 
never  heard  of  him,  but  he  was  a great  man,  all  the 
same,  here  in  Oregon,  in  the  old  times.  Queer  he 
was,  and  no  mistake.  Member  of  one  o f the  early 
legislatures,  sort  of  general  peacemaker;  everybody 
went  to  him  with  their  troubles,  and  when  he  said  a 
lawsuit  didn’t  go,  it  didn’t.  And  he  always  stuck  up 
for  the  Indians,  and  always  called  his  own  kind 
‘dirty  mean  whites.’  I used  to  think  that  was  put 
on,  and  maybe  it  was;  but  anyhow,  that  was  th  e way 
he  used  to  talk.  And  a hundred  times  he  has  said  to 
me  ‘John,  when  I die,  I want  to  be  buried  on  Mem- 
loose  Isle.’  That’s  the  ‘Isle  of  the  Dead’  which  we 
just  passed,  and  has  been  from  times  away  back  the 
burial  place  of  the  Chinook  Indians.  It’s  just  full  of 
’em.  And  I says  to  him  ‘Now,  Vic.,  its  fame  you’re 
after.’  ‘John,’  says  he,  ‘I’ll  tell  you;  I’m  not  indiffer- 
ent to  glory,  and  there’s  many  a big  gun  laid  away 
in  the  cemetery  that  people  forget  in  a year,  and 
his  grave’s  never  visited  after  a few  turns  of  the 


Trevet’s 

monument 


Burial 
place  of 
Chinooks 


Fifty-seven 


The  largest  fleet  on  Upper  Columbia  River,  at  Kennewick,  Wash. 


The  Columbia  River 


wheel;  and,  if  I rest  on  Memloose  Isle,  I’ll  not  be 
forgotten  while  people  travel  this  river.  And  another 
thing;  you  know,  John,  the  dirty,  mean  whites  stole 
the  Indian  s burial  ground  and  built  Portlan  a th  ere. 
Every  day  the  papers  have  an  account  of  Mr.  Big- 
bug’s  proposed  palace,  and  how  Indian  bones  were 
turned  up  in  the  excavation.  I won’t  be  buried 
alongside  any  such  dirty,  mean  thieves.  And  I tell 
you  further,  John,  that  it  may  be  that  if  I am  laid 
away  among  the  Indians,  when  the  great  day  comes 
I might  slip  in  kind  of  easy.  Th  ey  ain’t  going  to 
have  any  such  a hard  time  as  the  dirty  whites  will 
have,  and  maybe  I won’t  be  noticed,  and  slide  in 
quiet  along  wi  th  th  e crowd.’ 

“And  I tell  you,’’  said  the  honest  captain,  as  he 
swung  the  Queen  around  a sharp  headland,  and 
the  monument  and  island  vanished,  “he  has  got  his 
wish.  He  don’t  lay  among  the  whites,  and  there 
isn’t  a day  in  summer  when  the  name  of  Vic.  Trevet 
ain’t  mentioned,  either  on  yon  train  or  on  a boat, 
just  as  I am  telling  it  to  you  now.  When  he  died,  in 
San  Francisco,  a few  years  ago,  some  of  his  old 
friends  had  him  brought  back  to  The  Dalles,  and  one 
lovely  Sunday  (being  an  off  day)  we  buried  him  on 
Memloose  Isle,  and  then  we  put  up  the  monument. 
His  earthly  immortality  is  safe  and  sure,  for  that 
stone  will  stand  as  long  as  the  island  stays.  She’s 
eight  feet  square  at  the  base,  built  of  the  native 
rock  right  on  the  island,  then  three  feet  of  granite, 
then  a ten-foot  column.  It  cost  us  $1,500  and  Vic. 
is  bricked  up  in  a vault  underneath.  Yes,  sir,  he’s 


Friends 
respect 
his  wish 


Fifty-nine 


o 


The  Columbia  River 


there  for  sure  till  resurrection  day.  Queer  idea? 
Why,  blame  it  all,  if  he  thought  he  could  get  in 
along  with  the  Chinooks  it’s  all  right,  ain’t  it?  Don’t 
want  a man  to  lose  any  chances,  do  you?” 

So  much  has  been  said  of  this  mighty  river  that 
the  preconceived  idea  of  the  tourist  is  of  a surging 
flood  of  unknown  depth,  rushing  like  a mountain 
torrent.  The  plain  facts  are  that  the  Lower  Colum- 
bia is  rather  a placid  stream,  wi  th  a seemingly  slug- 
gish current.  In  the  spring  months  the  river  rises 
from  twenty-five  to  forty  feet,  leaving  driftwood 
high  up  among  the  trees  on  the  banks.  The  tide 
ebbs  and  flows  at  Portland  from  eighteen  inches  to 
three  feet,  according  to  season,  and  this  tidal  influ- 
ence is  felt,  in  high  water,  as  far  up  as  the  Cascades. 
It  is  fifty  miles  of  glorious  beauty  from  The  Dalles 
to  the  Locks. 

Before  reaching  the  Cascades  we  pass  the  town 
of  Hood  River,  the  mart  of  the  famous  fruit  valley 
of  the  same  name.  H ere  is  found  an  ideal  climate 
the  year  round,  the  rigors  of  winter  and  the  extremes 
of  summer  being  unknown,  offering  the  happy  com- 
bination of  rest  and  quiet  life,  with  pure  and  exhila- 
rating mountain  air.  For  scenic  charms  few  spots 
equal  it.  In  the  foreground  is  the  Columbia;  across 
the  river,  in  Washington,  is  Mount  Adams,  12,470 
feet  high;  in  the  opposite  direction,  to  the  south, 
twenty-seven  miles,  is  Mount  Hood,  perpetually 
covered  with  snow,  11,225  feet  high,  forming  a pic- 
turesque background  to  the  valley;  and  on  the  east 
and  west  are  the  foot-hills  of  the  Cascades. 


Lower 

Columbia 

placid 

stream 


Hood  River 


Mounts 
Adams  and 
Hood 


Sixty-one 


The  Columbia  River 


Having  its  source  at  the  base  of  Mount  Hoo  d,  the 
stream  of  Hood  River,  ice  c old,  winds  its  way 
through  the  valley,  furnishing  water  for  irrigation 
purposes  the  entire  distance,  and  emptying  into  the 
Columbia  just  above  the  town. 


MOUNT  HOOD 

The  start  for  the  ascent  of  Mount  Hood  is  made 
from  the  town  of  Hood  River;  the  mountain  is  easily 
accessible,  and  hundreds  climb  to  its  summit  every 
year.  A refreshing  night’s  rest  at  the  modern  hotel 
overlooking  the  Columbia,  an  early  breakfast,  and 
the  visitor  is  off  on  the  twenty-seven  mile  coaching 
trip  to  Cloud  Cap  Inn,  which  stands  at  snow  line  on 
the  northeastern  slope  of  the  mountain  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  6,800  feet. 

As  the  ascent  is  made  to  the  wonderfully  produc- 
tive valley  above,  a glance  backward  through  the 
soft,  silvery  light  of  the  morning  affords  a view  of 
the  broad  Columbia,  and  reveals  a pretty  and  pros- 
perous town,  ideally  located,  and  beautified  by 
hundreds  of  natural  oaks,  wi  th  wide-spreading 
branches.  The  road  leads  past  scores  of  attrac- 
tive homes  and  well-kept  apple  and  strawberry 
farms,  for  which  the  valley  is  noted.  To  the  right 
and  left  of  the  fertile  tract  are  spurs  of  the  Cascades, 
tree-clad  and  treeless.  In  the  canon  below  is  the 
stream  of  Hood  River,  making  music,  as  its  ice-cold 
waters  race  downward  to  join  the  Columbia.  Every 
mi  le  the  scenery  changes;  it  is  uphill  and  down, 
across  a high  bridge,  hugging  the  edge  of  a mountain 


Ascent  of 
Mount  Hood 


Through 

lovely, 

fertile 

valley 


Sixty-three 


The  Columbia  River 


spur,  through  groves  of  pine  and  fir,  and  back  again 
to  the  level  section. 

Early  in  the  forenoon,  twenty  miles  on  th  e way, 
the  coach  stops  at  a most  inviting  place  near  the  banks 
of  Hood  River,  and  while  the  passengers  enjoy  a hasty 
lunch  and  a short  rest  beneath  the  shade  trees,  horses 
are  changed  for  the  last  stage  of  the  trip.  From  this 
point  the  climb  is  a steep  up  grade  and  slower  progress 
is  made.  Fewer  glimpses  of  Mount  Hood  are  caught, 
and  ere  long  it  is  entirely  lost  from  view.  Here  and 
th  ere  are  big  patches  of  wild  flowers,  and  for  long 
distances,  ocean  spray  and  white  syringa,  laden  wi  th 
bi  ossoms,  line  th  e way.  Soon  the  trees  grow  taller, 
the  forests  denser,  and  the  over-impressiveness  of 
the  monarchs  causes  almost  silent  admiration,  which 
is  broken  only  when  the  road  makes  a sudden  turn 
into  a cleared  section,  and  Mount  Hood  stands  out 
in  greater  grandeur  and  beauty  than  ever  before, 
seemingly  to  bid  welcome  to  the  visitors.  A few 
minutes  later  and  Cloud  Cap  Inn  is  reached.  Pass- 
ing the  doorway  of  the  long  structure,  the  visitors 
are  ushered  into  a long  reception  room,  comfortably 
furnished,  with  pine  logs  blazing  in  the  huge  fireplace. 

Cloud  Cap  Inn  is  unique  and  interesting,  affording 
a magnificent  view  from  its  top,  reached  by  a wind- 
ing stairway  from  the  outside.  Surrounding  it  are  a 
number  of  smaller  cabins,  which  are  rented  to 
visitors.  Dozens  of  squirrels  have  taken  homes  near 
the  Inn  and  cabins,  and  so  tame  have  they  become 
that  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  them  feeding 
from  the  hand  of  a guest. 


A midway 
luncheon 


Cloud  Cap 
Inn 


Fearless 

squirrels 


Sixty-five 


The  Columbia  River 


The  scene  from  Cloud  Cap  Inn  may  well  be 
described  as  boundless  in  extent,  beauty  and  variety. 
To  the  south  of  us,  rising  like  a shaft  from  our 
feet,  the  impending  splendor  o f the  central  dome 
overtops  us  more  than  1,000  feet;  on  the  east,  in  the 
immediate  foregroun  a.  th  e vast  field  of  snow,  dis- 
closing by  its  sweeping  undulations  the  immovable 
inequalities  of  the  mountain;  directly  on  the  west 
the  mountain  seems  to  have  been  cleft  by  subter- 
ranean convulsions  and  an  enormous  segment  sunk 
away,  leaving  a sheer  precipice  two  or  three  thou- 
sand feet  high.  From  the  foot  of  this  wall  stretches 
a glacier,  broken  into  gigantic  crevices,  whose  sky- 
blue  edges  are  often  but  portals  of  grottoes  filled 
with  strange  and  fantastic  ornamentation — fit  sepul- 
chres for  ice  kings.  Then,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see, 
extend  forest-covere  d hills  an  d vail  eys,  lakes  and 
streams,  Portland  itself  being  invisi  ble  only  because 
of  the  hazy  condition  of  the  air.  To  the  north  the 
broad  Cascade  Range,  fir  clothed,  and  here  and  there 
snow  tipped,  its  upheaved  masses  subdued  and 
dwarfed  by  three  mighty  domes  of  Mounts  Adams 
Rainier  and  St.  Helens,  which  appear  at  distances 
varying  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 
Beautiful  and  fitting  seems  the  circlet  of  clouds — the 
saint’s  rosary — which  hangs  around  St.  Helens’  crest. 
Through  this  magnificent  picture,  from  the  extreme 
east,  where  roll  the  boundless  plains  of  the  inland 
empire,  to  the  extreme  west,  the  Columbia  River 
flashes  like  a scimitar  blade  that  has  cleft  in  twain, 
by  a titanic  stroke,  plain  and  rock-ribbed  mountain. 


Three  peaks 
in  sight 


Sixty-seven 


Copyright  IQ02  The  Whirlpool,  Celilo  Falls,  Columbia  River 

Benj.  A.  Gifford. 


The  Columbia  River 


CLIMB  TO  SUMMIT 

From  Cloud  Cap  Inn  the  summit  of  Mount  Hood 
seems  but  a step  away,  but,  in  fact,  the  distance  to 
its  top  is  four  miles.  A few  minutes’  walk  from 
the  Inn  brings  the  climber  to  Eliot  Glacier,  on  the 
northeast  slope  of  the  mountain.  From  its  base  the 
stream  of  Hood  River  starts.  Coe  Glacier  lies  on 
the  north  slope  of  the  mountain,  Sandy  Glacier  on 
the  southwest,  Zigzag  Glacier  west  of  south,  White 
River  Glacier  east  of  south,  Newton  Glacier  south- 
east, Ladd  Glacier  west  of  Coe,  and  one  vast 
unnamed  ice  fie  id  southwest  of  Ladd  Glacier. 

A NEVER-FORGOTTEN  VIEW 

For  three  miles  from  the  I nn  to  the  top  of 
Cooper  s spur,  the  way  leads  over  ground  devoid  of 
snow,  then  for  a mile,  snow  and  ice  are  encountered. 
About  900  feet  from  the  summit  the  rope  line 
begins,  and  for  one-fourth  of  the  distance  alpenstock 
and  pluck  are  also  essential;  but  the  top  once 
reached,  the  plucky  climber  is  well  repaid  for  his 
effort.  To  the  north,  sixty  miles,  is  Mount  Adams, 
12,470  feet  high;  on  Puget  Sound,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  away,  is  Mount  Rainier,  14,440,  and  to  the 
west  is  Mount  St.  Helens,  9,750  feet,  an  d of  1 esser 
peaks  a score.  For  miles  the  mighty  Columbia  is 
seen  winding  its  way,  while  in  every  direction,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  see,  stretch  bounteous  fields  of  grain 
and  scores  of  fertile  valleys. 

Th  ose  who  do  not  care  to  scale  the  summit  have 
ample  opportunity  to  hunt  and  fish,  make  short  trips 


Many 

glaciers 


The  view 
from  the 
summit 


Hunting, 
fishing, 
side  trips 


Sixty-nine 


Copyright  IQOI  Steamer  Bailey  Gatzert  approaching  Cascade  Locks 

Benj.  A.  Gifford 


The  Columbia  River 


to  Eliot  Glacier,  or  side  trips  into  the  woods,  always 
finding  something  new  and  interesting. 

MOUNT  ADAMS 

Almost  directly  opposite  Hood  River,  on  the 
Washington  side  of  the  Columbia,  is  the  town  of 
White  Salmon,  situated  on  a river  of  the  same  name. 
It  is  by  this  route  that  Mount  Adams  is  reached. 
Thirty  miles  up  the  White  Salmon,  high  on  the  slope 
of  Mount  Adams,  is  Trout  Lake,  rapidly  becoming  a 
favorite  outing  place,  where  the  fishing  is  good  and 
there  is  plenty  of  game.  The  strange  ice  caves  near 
the  lake  are  well  worth  seeing,  ice  being  found  in 
them  the  year  arou  nd. 

THE  CASCADE  LOCKS 

Now  we  approach  what  an  artist  once  said  was  “the 
second  best  bit  of  water  in  America,’’  and  he  wisely 
forebore  mentioning  the  first.  For  the  Columbia 
Cascades  do  not  yield  place  to  any  rapids,  so  called, 
on  this  continent;  far-famed  Lachine  may  claim  its 
adherents,  but  those  rapids  lack  the  majesty,  the 
fierce,  tempestuous  onset,  of  the  Columbia,  where  it 
falls  against  this  mountain  wall,  an  d the  scene  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  has  no  such  setting  of  indomitable 
barriers  clothed  in  vivid  green,  with  the  cruel  lava 
fangs  showing  here  and  there,  the  foam  and  shouting 
of  the  river,  and  the  celestial  blue  of  an  Oregon  sky 
overhead. 

The  Columb  ia,  in  passing  through  the  Cascade 
Range,  is  forced  into  a narrow,  rocky  gorge,  for  a 


Mount 

Adams 

becoming 

popular 


Cascade 

Rapids 

most 

majestic  in 
America 


Seventy-one 


Copyright  Cascade  Locks,  Col  umbia  River 

Benj.  A.  Gifford. 


The  Columbia  River 


distance  of  four-an  d-a-half  miles.  A rocky  bar 
extends  across  the  river  at  the  head  o f th  e gorge, 
closing  the  channel  completely,  an  a th  ere  is  a fall  of 
24  feet  in  a distance  of  2,500  feet.  1 he  rest  o f the 
gorge,  for  four  miles,  was  greatly  obstructed  by 
boulders  and  projecting  rocks,  and  the  slope  o f the 
river  bed  was  so  great  that  navigation  to  the  foot  of 
the  actual  Cascades  was  possible  only  at  low  water. 
The  project  for  improving  this  part  of  the  river  was 
adopted  by  Congress  in  1877,  and  modified  in  1886, 
1888  an  d 1894,  and  provided  for  a canal  and  locks 
around  the  Cascades.  These  locks  are  462  feet  long 
by  92  feet  wide,  with  a low-water  depth  of  8 feet; 
th  ey  were  open  for  navigation  November  5,  1896, 
the  Government  having  expended  over  $4,000,000 
in  their  construction. 

o n the  Washington  side  of  the  Cascades  stands 
th  e old  block  house  or  fort,  where  Phil  Sheridan  was 
once  stationed,  and  it  was  in  this  vicinity  that  he 
had  h is  first  skirmish  wi  th  the  I ndians. 


Cascade 

canal 

and 

locks 


LEGEND  OF  THE  CASCADES 


There  is  a quaint  Indian  legend  concerning  the 
Cascades  to  the  effect  that,  away  back  in  the  forgotten 
times,  there  was  a natural  bridge  across  th  e river — 
the  water  flowing  under  one  arch.  The  Great  Spirit 
had  made  this  bridge  very  beautiful  for  his  red 
children ; it  was  firm,  solid  earth,  and  covered  with 
trees  and  grass.  The  two  great  giants  who  sat 
always  glowering  at  each  other  from  far  away  (Mount 
Adams  and  Mount  Hood)  quarreled  terribly  once  on 


Legend  of 

Cascade 

bridge 


Seventy-three 


The  Columbia  River 


a time,  and  the  sky  grew  black  wi  th  th  eir  smoke 
and  the  earth  trembled  with  their  roaring.  In  their 
rage  and  fury  they  began  to  throw  great  stones 
and  huge  mountain  boulders  at  one  another.  This 
battle  lasted  for  days;  and  when  the  smoke  and 
thunderings  had  passed  away  an  d the  sun  shone 
peacefully  again,  the  people  came  back  once  more. 
But  there  was  no  bridge  there.  Pieces  of  rock 
made  small  islands  above  the  lost  bridge,  but  below 
that  the  river  fretted,  and  shouted,  and  plunged  over 
jagged  and  twisted  boulders  for  miles  down  the 
stream,  throwing  the  spray  high  in  the  air,  madly  spend- 
ing its  strength  in  treacherous  whirlpools  and  deep, 
seductive  currents,  ever  after  to  be  wrathful,  com- 
plaining and  dangerous.  The  stoutest  warrior  cou  id 
not  live  in  that  terrible  torrent.  So  the  beautiful 
bridge  was  lost — destroyed  in  th  is  Titan  battle;  but 
far  down  in  the  water  cou  id  be  seen  many  o f the 
stately  trees  which  the  Great  Spirit  caused  to 
remain  th  ere  as  a token  of  the  bridge.  These  he 
turned  to  stone,  and  they  are  there  even  to  this  day. 
The  theory  of  the  scientists,  of  course,  runs  counter 
to  the  pretty  legend.  Science  usually  destroys  poetry; 
and  they  tell  us  that  a part  of  the  mountain  slid  into 
th  e river  thus  accounting  for  the  remnant  of  a 
forest  down  in  the  deep  water.  Moreover,  pieces 
which  have  been  removed,  show  the  wood  to  be 
live  timber  and  not  petrified,  as  the  poetic  fiction 
has  it. 

The  legend  lore  of  the  river  is  almost  en  di  ess. 
Th  ere  is  another  story,  an  Indian  love  tale,  which 


Scientists 

destroy 

pretty 

legend 


Many 
legends 
of  the 
river 


Seventy-five 


"3 


rV*-> 

o 

UCQ 


A 


The  Columbia  River 


seeks  to  account  for  this  mighty  rent  in  the  moun- 
tain wall.  It  is  called  the  “Bridge  of  the  Gods,’  and 
says  that  on  the  Oregon  side  of  the  river  there  lived 
an  Indian  brave  upon  whom  the  Gods  looked  wi  th 
much  favor.  While  hunting  on  the  W ashington 
side,  he  met  and  fell  in  love  wi  th  an  Indian  maiden. 
Returning  some  time  later  he  married  her  and  started 
for  his  home  on  the  Oregon  side.  When  just  about 
to  cross  the  bridge,  disappointed  suitors  and  tribes- 
men appeared  from  ambush.  Noting  their  wrath, 
and  taking  the  advice  of  his  young  wife,  the  two 
hastened  across  the  bridge.  No  sooner  had  they 
reached  the  Oregon  side  than  there  was  a loud 
noise,  and,  looking  around,  they  saw  that  the  great 
bridge  had  fallen,  carrying  the  angry  pursuers  to  a 
watery  grave,  the  Gods  thus  again  showing  their 
love  for  the  chieftain  s son.  When  the  bridge  fell  the 
formation  cause  d the  rapids,  or  Cascades,  in  the  river. 

The  Columbia  has  not  changed  in  th  e centuries, 
but  flows  in  th  e same  channel  here  as  when,  in 
remote  ages,  the  lava  overflowing  cut  out  a 
course  and  left  its  pathway  clear  for  all  time.  Below 
the  lower  Cascades  a sea-coral  formation  is  found, 
grayish  in  color,  and  not  pretty,  but  proving  conclu- 
sively its  sea  formation.  Sandstone  is  also  at  times 
uncovered,  showing  that  this  was  made  by  sea 
deposit  before  the  lava  flowed  down  upon  it. 

THE  MIDDLE  COLUMBIA 

From  the  Cascades  to  the  mouth  of  the  Willam- 
* ette,  a stretch  of  62  miles,  is  known  as  the  Middle 


Channel 

unchanging 


Seventy-seven 


The  Columbia  River 


Columbia,  and  from  the  Willamette’s  mouth  to  the 
sea,  98  miles,  the  Lower  Columbia.  It  is  60  miles 
of  changeful  beauty  on  the  Middle  Columbia  all  the 
way  to  Portland.  That  monster  circular  formation 
looking  ahead  on  the  Washington  side,  soon  after 
leaving  the  Cascades,  and  nearly  opposite  the  town 
of  Warrendale,  is  Castle  Rock,  formerly  a lookout 
station  for  the  Indians.  It  is  1,146  feet  high  and, 
until  1901,  its  summit  had  never  been  scaled  by 
white  man,  and  the  ascent  was  then  only  accom- 
plished after  hours  of  difficult  and  hazardous  labor. 
Since  that  time  several  parties  have  climbed  to  its 
top.  A few  miles  below  the  town  of  Bonneville 
one  is  confronted  wi  th  an  embarrassing  array  of 
lovely  scenery.  On  the  Oregon  shore,  falling  in 
quick  succession,  are:  H orse  Tail  Falls,  and  Oneonta 
Gorge,  a huge,  rock-riven  cleft,  the  sides  of  which 
are  covered  with  mosses,  vines  and  ferns;  the 
always  - to  - be  - remembered  Multnomah  Falls,  most 
ethereal  of  water  sprites — a filmy  veil  of  lace,  fall  ing 
720  feet  sheer  into  a basin  on  the  hillside,  and  then 
130  feet  into  the  river  — the  most  fascinating  vision 
of  all  the  many  on  this  great  river,  “briefest  of  the 
mighty  streams  of  earth.’’  Gordon  Falls  and  Bridal 
Veil  follow  in  quick  succession.  To  the  right,  on 
the  Washington  side,  opposite  the  town  of  Bridal 
Veil,  is  Cape  Horn,  a huge  promontory,  with  a ver- 
tical face  of  400  feet.  Far  up  on  the  slope  above, 
are  green  grasses  and  trees,  and,  in  a dozen  places, 
small  cataracts  come  rushing  over  its  top,  the  water 
being  caught  up  by  the  wi  nd  and  carried  afar. 


Castle  Rock 


Horse  Tail 
Falls  and 
Oneonta 
Gorge 


Bridal  Veil 
and  other 
falls 


Seventy-nine 


' 

V 


Copyright  IQO?  Nature's  Handiwork  along  the  Columbia  River 

ben'].  A.  Gif j ora. 


S4&  \ 


The  Columbia  River 


Bridal  Veil  bluffs  and  numerous  pinnacles  are  seen 
along  the  way.  The  two  titanic  rocks  on  the 
Oregon  shore  are  the  Pillars  of  H ercules  — a huge 
forty-foot  fir  growing  from  the  summit  of  the  taller 
formation.  Next  we  pass  Latourelle  Falls,  its  misty 
trail  entangled  amid  entrancing  scenery,  and  then 
the  town  of  Latourelle.  The  huge,  gray  monolith 
ahead,  to  the  right,  is  Rooster  Rock,  marking  the 
western  end  of  the  great  Columbia  Gorge.  Imme- 
diately below  Rooster  Rock  the  railroad,  which  has 
kept  us  company  from  The  Dalles,  winding  along  the 
river’s  edge,  parts  from  the  Columbia  and  takes  a 
short  cut  for  Portland. 

It  would  be  an  insult  to  call  the  riversides  of  the 
Columbia  Gorge  “bluffs,’’  for  they  are  bold  promon- 
tories which  attain  majestic  heights.  One  timber 
chute,  where  logs  come  whizzing  into  the  river  wi  th 
th  e velocity  of  a cannon  ball,  is  3,328  feet  long,  and 
it  is  claimed  a log  makes  the  trip  in  twenty  seconds. 

Th  e river  grows  broader,  more  majestic  in  sweep, 
and  the  character  of  the  scenery  changes.  Vancou- 
ver, Wash.,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia, 
is  soon  rea  ched.  H ere  is  the  largest  post  in  the 
Pacific  Northwest;  and  the  picturesque  barracks 
sloping  to  the  river  are  said  to  be  the  most  healthful 
in  the  United  States.  The  town  of  Vancouver  is 
much  sought  by  invalids  on  account  of  its  peculiar 
charm  of  location,  and  the  healthfulness  of  the  cli- 
mate. It  is  six  miles  from  here  by  ferry  across  the 
Columbia,  and  then  by  trolley  to  Portland;  but  two 
miles  below  the  town  our  steamer  swings  around  a 


Rooster 

Rock 


Timber 

chute 


Vancouver, 

Wash. 


Eighty-one 


Copyright  iqo6.  Shell  Rock,  Coiunr.bia  River 

Benj.  A.  Gifford. 


The  Columbia  River 


wooded  point  and,  breasting  the  tranquil  waters  of 
the  Willamette  for  12  miles,  we  land  at  Portlan  d,  the 
“Rose  City,’’  and  the  memory  of  that  day’s  journey 
down  the  lordly  river  will  remain  a gracious  posses- 
sion for  years  to  come. 

PORTLAND 

They  call  it  the  “Rose  City,’’  and  rightly  so;  but 
it  has  a valid  claim  to  the  name  of  “H  ome  City,’’  for 
no  place  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  more  homelike  to 
the  traveler.  The  dry  recital  of  dusty  facts  or  com- 
mercial statistics  only  goes  to  show  the  trade  impor- 
tance of  a city,  and  is  wearisome  to  the  tourist  and 
the  sentimental  idler.  Signs  and  tokens  of  abun- 
dant prosperity  abound  on  every  side  in  Portland, 
and  these  are  easily  noted  and  marked  for  reference. 
But  the  elusive  charm  of  this  old  home  city  is  more 
difficult  to  define.  M ixed  with  its  exuberant  energy 
is  a certain  sort  of  kindliness,  an  open,  hospitable 
welcome,  a friendly  interest  in  the  “stranger  within 
our  gates,’’  which  is  altogether  captivating.  It  is 
small  wonder  that  the  intending  casual  visitor  lingers 
beyond  his  time  limit  in  this  charmed  air  of  frank, 
western  hospitality.  The  first  item  of  importance  to 
be  noted  is  the  numberless  detours  and  excursions 
which  can  be  made  from  this  centering  point.  Lit- 
tle journeys  wind  out  from  the  city  in  every  direc- 
tion— from  sea  bathing  to  trout  fishing,  the  attrac- 
tions are  practically  endless.  Portland  itself,  with 
its  splendid  environment,  offers  especially  lovely 
scenes,  beautiful  walks  and  drives  full  of  charming 


Portland, 

the 

“Rose  City” 


“Home 

City” 

appropriate 

name 


Sea  bathing, 
trout  fishing 


Eighty-three 


The  Columbia  River 


surprises.  And  the  roses  are  everywhere — from  the 
humble  dooryard  of  the  laborer  to  the  palace  o f the 
merchant  prince.  It  is  affirmed  that  1,100  varieties 
of  roses  are  reared  in  th  is  favored  climate — more,  if 
this  be  so,  than  are  produced  in  any  other  section 
of  the  United  States. 

If,  however,  it  should  chance  that  inquiry  is  made 
along  commercial  lines,  the  busy  Portlander  will 
usually  answer  with  impressive  emphasis:  “Portland 
is  all  right;  230,000  people;  area,  44  square  miles; 
greatest  fresh-water  harbor  in  the  world,  110  miles 
from  the  sea;  wholesale  trade,  $200,000,000;  annual 
bank  clearances,  $330,000,000;  terminal  yards  han- 
dle 153,000  freight  cars  annually;  313  miles  paved 
streets;  200  miles  street  railway;  267  miles  water 
mains  carrying  ice  water  from  Mount  Hood,  50  miles 
away;  same  latitude  as  Halifax,  and  yet  1,100  varie- 
ties of  roses  bloom  out  of  doors  ten  months  in  the 
year — Portland  is  all  right!’’  All  of  which  is  unde- 
niably true,  and  the  city  speaks  for  itself  in  unmis- 
takable terms.  February  22d  in  each  year  is  “Rose- 
Planting  Day,”  and  the  “Rose  Festival”  in  June  is  a 
sight  which  the  fortunate  visitor  will  never  forget. 

THE  LOWER  COLUMBIA 

From  Portland  to  Astoria  the  short,  but  glorious, 
life  of  the  Columbia,  draws  rapidly  to  a close. 
While  th  e wild  and  picturesque  beauty  of  the  upper 
river  is  lacking,  there  is  still  a fascination  in  witness- 
ing th  is  last  stage  in  the  life  of  the  great  stream 
before  its  death  in  the  Pacific.  The  fine  fleet  of 


Portland 

commer- 

cially 


Annual 
“Rose 
Festival” 
in  June 


The  Lower 
Columbia 


Eighty-five 


The  Columbia  River 


Five  peaks 
in  view 


the  Oregon  Railroad  & Navigation  Company’s 
steamers,  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired  in  the  way 
of  1 uxurious  accommodation;  equipment  and  service 
are  above  criticism. 

Passing  out  of  Portland  harbor,  alive  with  incom- 
ing and  outgoing  ships,  flying  the  flags  of  many 
nations,  through  the  draw  bridges,  and  past  long 
lines  of  docks,  warehouses,  elevators,  factories  and 
mills,  the  twelve  miles  on  the  Willamette  are  quickly 
made.  Saluting  the  Government  lighthouse,  marking 
the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  the  boat  swings  into 
the  Columbia  for  the  trip  down  stream.  On  a clear 
day  one  may  enjoy,  at  the  junction  of  the  Willamette 
with  the  Columbia,  a wonderful  sight — five  mountain 
peaks  are  in  view:  St.  Helens,  Mount  Jefferson, 
Mount  Adams,  Mount  Hood,  and  Mount  Rainier.  St. 
Helens,  queen  of  the  Cascade  Range,  a fair  and 
grace  ful  cone ; exquisite  mantling  of  snow  sweeps 
along  her  shoulders  toward  the  bristling  pines.  Not 
far  from  her  base,  the  Columbia  crashes  through  the 
mountains  in  a magnificent  chasm,  and  Mount  Hood, 
the  vigorous  prince  of  the  range,  rises  in  a keen 
pyramid,  some  12,000  feet.  Every  mile  of  the  way 
reveals  something  of  delightful  interest.  Near  the 
Washington  shore,  soon  after  passing  Calama,  is 
Coffin  Rock,  the  top  of  which  was  formerly  used  as 
a burial  ground  by  the  Indians.  On  down  the  his- 
toric river,  past  villages,  saw  mills,  perpendicular 
basaltic  bluffs  and  si  de-hill  fa  rms,  the  boat  speeds  its 
way.  Mount  St.  Helens  stands  out  in  all  her  beauty, 
her  snow-covered  summit  seldom  lost  to  view  for  any 


Eighty-six 


The  Columbia  River 


length  of  time  and  then  only  to  reappear  again  more 
beautiful  than  before.  Ahead  are  th  e seining 
grounds,  the  salmon  fisheries  of  the  river  being  the 
greatest  in  the  wor  id.  Pin  ar  Rock,  a huge  mass  in 
the  river,  marks  the  location  of  Pillar  Rock  Can- 
nery, one  of  the  largest  on  the  Lower  Columbia.  In 
the  distance,  standing  out  against  the  western  sky,  is 
Saddle  Mountain,  its  peculiar  shape  suggestive  of 
the  name.  As  the  river  gradually  grows  wider,  its 
majestic  sweep  assumes  grander  proportions;  and  as 
the  boat  pulls  alongside  the  wharf  at  Astoria,  one 
hundred  and  ten  miles  from  Portland,  it  can  scarcely 
be  realized  that  five  hours  have  been  consumed  in 
making  the  trip.  Across  the  bay  is  the  pretty  town 
of  Ilwaco,  and  Fort  Canby  and  Cape  Disappointment 
look  across  to  Fort  Stevens  and  Point  Adams. 

One  hour  from  Astoria,  through  the  famous  fish- 
ing waters  of  the  Columbia,  past  scores  of  salmon 
traps  and  nets,  and  as  many  white-winged  fish  boats, 
lands  the  passenger  at  Ilwaco,  on  Baker’s  Bay,  a mile 
and  a half  east  of  Fort  Canby,  where  close  con- 
nection is  made  for  beach  points  with  trains  of  the 
Ilwaco  Railroad  & Navigation  Company,  whose 
cars  stand  on  the  wharf  awaiting  the  steamer. 
Scattered  along  the  beach  are  hundreds  of  cottages 
and  hotels  in  which  summer  life  is  an  unceasing 
round  of  pleasure,  from  the  opening  until  the  close 
of  the  season.  The  much-dreaded  “resort  mosquito’’ 
is  unknown  and  no  venomous  snakes  and  insects 
are  found.  The  thermometer  rarely  goes  above  80 
degrees  in  July  and  August,  but  light  overcoats,  fires 


Salmon 

fisheries 


Astoria 


Forts  Canby 
and  Stevens 


No  mosquitos 
or  snakes 


Eighty-seven 


Cigar  Rock,  looking  down  stream,  Columbia  River 


The  Col  umbia  River 


morning  and  evening,  and  blankets  at  night  are 
comfortable  during  the  season. 

From  the  wharf  landing  to  Nahcotta,  on  Shoal- 
water  Bay,  about  sixteen  miles  up  the  peninsula, 
where  connection  is  made  with  the  steamers  for 
Oysterville,  Bay  Center,  South  Bend  and  other 
points,  the  Ilwaco  Railroad  & Navigation  Com- 
pany maintains  a splendid  service  for  the  entire 
distance  running  along  the  ridge  of  the  beach,  within 
200  yards  of  the  breakers,  affording  a splendid  view 
of  the  Pacific,  excepting  where  small,  but  beautiful, 
groves,  momentarily  shut  from  sight  the  vast  body 
of  water  as  it  rolls  and  breaks  upon  the  miles  and 
miles  of  sandy  beach.  Along  the  entire  length  of 
the  beach  are  lively  little  villages  where  the  rates  of 
accommodation  are  reasonable,  and  vary  to  suit  the 
visitor. 

In  addition  to  the  pleasures  of  the  seaside, 
innumerable  and  ideal  are  the  inland  trips, 
reached  by  shaded  roads;  and  just  a step  away, 
extending  along  the  peninsula  for  miles,  is  a chain 
of  fresh-water  lakes,  while  still  farther  inland,  quiet 
and  secluded  among  hills  and  forest,  is  a country  of 
wild  and  picturesque  beauty. 

RIVER  IMPROVEMENTS  AND  JETTY 

Portland  is  the  head  of  the  deep-sea  navigation 
for  ships  crossing  the  bar  at  the  mouth  o f the 
Columbia,  and  light  draft  boats  ascend  the  Willamette 
for  150  miles  above  Portland.  The  Government 
plans  for  the  improvement  of  the  Willamette  and 

Eighty-nine 


Overcoats 
in  August 


A beach 
railroad 


Lovely 

inland 

trips 


A 25-foot 
channel 


The  Columbia  River 


Lower  Columbia  contemplated  a channe  1 25  feet 
deep.  This  work  has  been  carried  on  from  Portland 
down  the  Willamette  with  satisfactory  results,  and 
an  enormous  amount  of  dredging  accomplished;  the 
Government  has  expended,  to  the  close  of  the  fiscal 
year  1909,  the  sum  of  $1,770,000,  and  the  estimated 
cost  for  completion  is  $2,500,000  more. 

There  were  three  channels  across  the  Columbia 
bar  before  any  improvements  were  made,  varying 
from  19  to  21  feet  in  depth,  and  unstable  in  position. 
The  project  of  1884  provided  for  a low-tide  jetty, 
running  4\  miles  out  to  sea  from  Point  Adams  on 
the  south  side  of  the  entrance  ; this  was  modified  in 
1893  by  raising  the  jetty  to  a high-tide  level,  and  it 
was  completed  in  1895  at  a cost  of  $2,000,000,  giv- 
ing a clear  channel  of  31  feet  at  low  water.  But  the 
shifting  currents  were  stronger  than  the  man-built 
bulwarks,  and  by  1902  the  channel  had  decreased 
to  21  feet,  and  in  1903  it  was  decided  to  extend  the 
jetty  2\  miles  farther,  an  d th  is  is  the  work  now  in 
hand.  The  amount  thus  far  expended  is  $5,517,000 
This  great  project  has  been  prosecuted  in  the  face 
of  tremendous  obstacles;  the  little  toredo  bores  into 
the  trestles  and  so  weakens  the  piles  that  thousands 
of  yards  are  washed  away  by  the  storms  of  a single 
winter.  And,  as  it  was  on  that  May  morning  a 
hundred  years  and  more  ago,  when  gallant  Gray 
first  beheld  it,  the  heavy  seas  still  sweep  shoreward 
with  titanic  force  now,  as  then,  showing  where  “A 
terrible  wa  11  of  breakers  marks  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  Achilles  of  rivers. ” 


Obstacles  to 
improvement 


“Achilles 
of  rivers’' 


Ninety-one 


The  Columbia  River 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 

(T.  W.  Simmons,  Engineer  Corps) 

Miles 

Mouth  of  Columbia 0 

Astoria 10 

Mouth  Willamette 108 

Vancouver 114 

Lower  Cascades 159 

Upper  Cascades 165 

Hood  River 183 

Dalles  City 206 

Celilo 220 

Umatilla 302 

Wallula 325 

Ainsworth — Mouth  Snake  River 336 

Yakima  River 345 

Priest  Rapids 409 

Victoria  Rock 461 

Rock  Island  Rapids 467 

Wenatchee  River 484 

Chelan  River 523 

Methow  River 541 

Okanogan  River 549 

Kalichen  Falls 570 

Mahkin  Rapids 582 

San  Poil  River 621 

Spokane  River 645 

Kettle  Falls 711 

Little  Dalles 737 

International  Boundary  Line 75 2 

Clark  s Fork 753 

Kootenay  River 777 

Lower  Arrow  Lake 789 

Upper  Arrow  Lake 847 

Dalles  des  Morts 962 

Boat  Encampment 1 ,032 

The  Source — Columbian  Lakes 1,212 


Ninety-two 


The  Columbia  River 


NOTES 

NOTE  A — The  allusions  in  this  slight  sketch  of 
the  Columbia  to  its  comparatively  short  length  must 
be  read  in  the  light  of  possibly  inverted  geography. 
A river  assumed  to  be  1,400  miles  long  could  not  in 
fairness  be  called  a short  stream.  But  the  early  voy- 
agers and  travelers,  down  to  comparatively  recent 
times,  insisted  on  Clark’s  Fork  and  the  Snake  River, 
where  they  joined,  as  the  parents  of  the  Columbia. 
Any  tributary  to  Clark’s  Fork  above  the  International 
Boundary  Line  was  of  minor  consideration.  Viewed 
in  th  is  light,  the  life  of  a river  only  336  miles  long — 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  to  Astoria — might  well 
be  called  “short  and  glorious.’’  And  it  is  this  idea 
which  dominates  Theodore  Winthrop’s  fine  tribute, 
quoted  in  the  opening  paragraph  of  this  sketch, 
wherein  he  compares  the  river  to  the  career  of  the 
illustrious  Homeric  hero.  The  far-off  land,  through 
which  runs  the  great  northern  branch,  is  too  remote 
to  permit  of  close  acquaintance.  So,  after  all  is 
said,  the  Columbia  that  we  really  know  and  love 
exists  only  for  that  all  too  short  journey  from  the 
nearer  mountains  to  the  sea,  and  for  us  it  is  truly, 
“briefest  of  the  mighty  streams  of  earth.’’ 

Note  B— Th  ose  who  are  interested  in  the  nom- 
enclature of  the  Pacific  Northwest  and  desire  more 
detailed  information,  should  consult  the  elaborate 
and  valuable  work  of  Professor  Meany.  This  is  an 
exhaustive  and  scholarly  production,  full  of  charm 
and  interest.  (“Vancouver’s  Discovery  of  Puget 


Ninety-three 


The  Columbia  R iver 

Sound,”  by  Edmond  S.  Meany,  Professor  of  His- 
tory, University  of  Washington.  Macmillans,  1 907 .) 

NOTEC — The  table  of  distances  on  the  Columbia 
as  given  in  the  reports  of  the  United  States  Engineer 
do  not  approximate  1,400  miles.  Lieutenant  Sim- 
mons gives  the  following  measurements: 

Miles 

From  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  International  Boundary  Line  - - - 752 

Boundary  Line  to  Boat  Encampment  - - 280 

Boat  Encampment  to  Upper  Columbian  Lake  1 80 

Total  - - - - - 1,212 

This  appears  to  be,  from  actual  exploration,  the 
accurate  length  of  the  river. 

NOTE  D — The  story  has  been  told  in  full.  The 
dramatic  vigor,  charming  descriptions,  and  the  steady 
historical  poise  make  it  rank  as  a notable  contribu- 
tion to  American  history,  and  for  those  who  desire 
the  fullest  details  regarding  th  is  noble  stream  it  is  the 
definitive  book.  (“The  Columbia  River;  its  History; 
its  Myths,  its  Scenery;  its  Commerce,’  hy  William 
Dennison  Lyman,  Professor  of  History,  W hitman 
College,  Walla  Walla,  Wash.  G.  P.  Putnam’s  Sons, 

1909.) 


LIBRARY  gp 

APR  1 4 1222 


UNIVERSITY 

Ninety-fotfr** 


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2 098701367 


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